BB creams continue to proliferate in the cosmetics market, and Atopalm BB Cream is another example of this. This column will review the ingredient listing for functionality and claims support.
This product has broad spectrum SPF 20 protection and is available in two shades. BB creams generally have good spreadability, and they have “shade adjusting” qualities that allow a minimum number of shades to address numerous skin tones. The company's patented multi-lamellar emulsion (MLE) technology is an ingredient that mimics skin’s natural lipids to restore its protective moisture barrier. Other claims are anti-aging, brightening, suitable for all skin types and non-irritating.
This is an OTC category product, and the active ingredients are a combination of a physical sunscreen, titanium dioxide and the chemical UV filter octinoxate. This is a w/s emulsion with humectant propylene glycol high in the ingredient listing. Because glycerin is listed relatively low in the list, it is most likely the carrier of the botanical extracts. The emollients are butylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, cyclopentasiloxane, caprylic/capric triglycerides, cetyl ethylhexanoate, caprylyl methicone, hexyl laurate, cyclohexasiloxane and dimethicone.
The primary emulsifier is cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone and the co-emulsifiers are sorbitan sesquiolate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate and stearic acid. The thickening and stabilizing ingredients are disteardimonium hectorite and hydroxyethylcellulose. Magnesium sulfate, or epsom salt, also helps to stabilize w/s emulsions. Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer helps to provide silkiness and water resistance for durability and long wearing claims.
The basis of the MLE technology is myristoyl/palmitoyl oxostearamide/arachamide MEA, which is a novel synthetic ceramide that helps to restore skin’s natural lipid barrier. Other cosmeceutical ingredients include arbutin and Glycyrrhiza glabra (licorice) root extract, both known for their brightening, evening and toning properties.The company claims arbutin to be an antioxidant, along with tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E). Panthenol (pro-vitamin B5) is a good skin balancing and conditioning agent for both skin and hair care. Portulaca oleracea (green purslane) extract, Phellinus linteus (mushroom) extract and allantoin are anti-inflammatory and soothing ingredients that support the non-irritating and “safe for sensitive skin” claims.
The paraben-free preservative system consists of caprylyl glycol, phenoxyethanol and caprylhydroxamic acid. The opacifiers and colorants are minerals aluminum hydroxide, mica and iron oxides.