Approaches and Issues in Powder Formulations

May 1, 2014 | Contact Author | By: Peter Tsolis, The Estée Lauder Companies, Melville, NY; and Gil Sahagun, Mana Products, NYC USA
Your message has been sent.
(click to close)
Contact the Author
Save
This item has been saved to your library.
View My Library
(click to close)
Save to My Library
Title: Approaches and Issues in Powder Formulations
powderx loosex pressedx bindersx pigmentsx fillersx texturex stabilityx scale-upx
  • Article
  • Media
  • Keywords/Abstract
  • Related Material

Keywords: powder | loose | pressed | binders | pigments | fillers | texture | stability | scale-up

Abstract: Powder cosmetic products (both pressed and loose) include foundations, eye shadows, primers, blushes, bronzers and all-over shimmer powders. Though the raw materials used in them often are similar, the processing, texture, packaging, applicators and application, along with color development, vary for each type. These variations are described here.

View citation for this article

P Tsolis and G Sahagun, Approaches and Issues in Powder Formulations, Cosm & Toil 129(4) 76-82 (2014)

Market Data

  • The color cosmetics category seems to have a knack of bucking the trend in austerity-hit markets.
  • As the ubiquity of the BB abbreviation increases, the popularity of BB products could unravel.
  • The nail polish boom across markets seems set to continue in 2013, and could gain momentum well into the long term.
  • In Brazil, nail products will almost certainly have leapfrogged lip products as the top-selling category by the end of 2013.
  • The difference between China and its fellow BRICs is that its nail polish culture is still largely undeveloped. This points to an untapped opportunity over the longer term.
view full article

Excerpt Only This is a shortened version or summary of the article you requested. To view the complete article, please log in or create an account. Registration is Free!

Though many people associate color cosmetics with anhydrous lipsticks and emulsion foundations, powder formulations have always been a core product category that drives brand growth and consumer loyalty. The U.S. powder market alone is set to grow by almost 7% by the end of fiscal 2014. This category has been steadily gaining share in the makeup market, with new technologies entering the market in both packaging and raw materials. Currently, powder formulations contribute approximately 12% to annual global makeup sales.

The skill set for complete powder formulating can only come from years of experimentation and development using a variety of powder-based products. It requires thorough knowledge of raw materials, color matching techniques and processing. Besides being a formulator, this is one case where the formulator must also unofficially play the role of a packaging analyst to ensure compatibility with the proposed components. Whether the powder-based product is loose or pressed, its stability in a packaging component can dictate its performance.

As noted, powder cosmetic products (both pressed and loose powders) include foundations, eyeshadows, primers, blushes, bronzers and all-over shimmer powders. Though the raw materials used in them often are similar, the processing, texture, packaging, applicators and application, along with color development, vary for each type; these are described here.

Raw Materials and Uses

Powder formulations involve the blending of pigments, fillers, and dry and wet binders to develop a uniform product. The coverage and shade provided by a product is defined by the levels of organic dyes, iron oxides and titanium dioxide in the formula—as well as processing techniques.

Dry binders: Dry binders are a necessity to powder formulations. They compact easily and use their adhesive properties to assist other ingredients in compacting. Some common dry binders are polyethylene, kaolin and fatty acid derivatives—including their metallic soaps, such as zinc stearate.

Excerpt Only This is a shortened version or summary of the article you requested. To view the complete article, please log in or create an account. Registration is Free!

 

Close

Biography: Peter Tsolis, The Estée Lauder Companies

Peter Tsolis

Peter Tsolis has held various positions within The Estée Lauder Companies R&D for the past 14 years, ranging from innovation to business and brand development. He is an active member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists and has presented on skin care formulation, delivery systems and new technology. His research interests include innovative technology, optimizing formulas and marketing.

Guest Contributor: Gil Sahagun

Gil Sahagun

Gil Sahagun is currently manager for the powder department of Mana Products in New York. He has worked at several major finished goods companies and developed countless powder-based formulations for the mass and prestige cosmetic markets.

Next image >

 
 

Close

It's Free...

Register or Log in to get full access to this content

Registration includes:

  • Access to all premium content
  • One click ingredient sample requests
  • Save articles in the My Library tool

Create an Account or Log In