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Section: Testing
Efficacy
[video] Skin Whitening Market and Research Insights
The skin lightening market is expected to reach US $24 billion by 2027. However, the market could face limitations due a lack of clinical efficacy evidence. As such, research including that demonstrated by Amway, in this video, will be crucial to keep the momentum moving.
Literature/Data
[podcast] Microbiome Interactions, Part II: External Forces
How do external forces or topical agents affect our skin microbiome? In part II of our podcast series on microbiome interactions, Greg Hillebrand, Ph.D., of Amway and Malcolm Kendall, of Microbiome Insights, share what's known and what's not. Listen now!
Method/Process
[podcast] Senescence to Understand Aging in Hair
Aging is a common denominator across not just cultures but substrates. Here, Alison Pawlus, Ph.D., of Aveda, describes a test based on cell senescence to measure the effects of aging in hair and identify ways to mitigate them. Listen now!
Method/Process
ACS Analyzes Microscopic Views of Hair Interaction
The ACS announced at its 236th meeting that it has carried out a microscopic analysis of hair fibers interacting with each other. The researchers find that this information will be beneficial to cosmetic chemists who formulate hair repair products.
Safety/Stability
Truth in Exposure: Disparity Dictates Product Safety
How often do you relax your hair? or color it? Clearly, some consumers are exposed to given products more than others based on preferences or practices. A new study points to this fact as a crucial component for regulators to consider when determining ingredient safety.
Skin Care
Can Skin Infection Connect to Food Allergies?
Six million children in the U.S. currently suffer from food allergies, and the number is growing. Researchers are investigating whether a child’s itchy or irritated skin has something to do with this.
Sun Protection
Testing SPF 15–100, Indoor vs. Outdoor
Lab tests on sunscreens show it takes more energy to produce mild erythema on protected skin than unprotected skin. Yet the FDA questions the need for SPFs higher than 50. In response, two outdoor studies were conducted using commercial products to challenge standing premises and determine if there is a measurable difference in an SPF 100 and SPFs of 50 or less.
Actives
Lightening Skin Through a Melanogenesis-interrupting Peptide
Cutaneous pigmentation is determined by melanogenesis, the transfer of melanosomes to keratinocytes, and the distribution of melanin to skin, among other processes. Interrupting these would limit skin pigmentation to achieve a better skin lightening effect. Here, the authors review the biological mechanisms of melanin production, then test a peptide designed to act on them for a lightening effect.
Method/Process
Genetic Test for Alopecia Approved in Europe
The HairDX Genetic Test for Hair Loss, a genetic baldness test manufactured by HairDX LLC, is now available as a CE Marked product under the European In Vitro Diagnostic Directive.
Literature/Data
VIDEO: Gallagher Notes Innovation, Sustainability, Among Accomplishments
In a recent exclusive interview with C&T, Kevin Gallagher, Croda’s retiring president of personal care/actives, spoke about some of the significant accomplishments of his long career with Croda. See what he talked about with C&T’s Rachel Grabenhofer.
Method/Process
On-tape Method Detects Modifications in Keratin
A recent paper published in the
Journal of Proteome Research
explores an on-tape digestion test method to screen targeted modifications in human skin keratin.
Literature/Data
Chrysanthemum Blend Inhibits UVA Damage Post Exposure
Recent work published by Amway and Zen-Bio Inc. researchers shows that a chrysanthemum extract and ascorbic acid-2-glucoside blend reduces CPD production in melanocytes hours after UVA exposure.
Literature/Data
Patent Pick: Indolyl for Smarter Skin Whitening
Skin whitening still ranks among the top demands from cosmetic consumers, especially those in Asia. As such, Unilever researchers have been seeking safer, more efficient means to manage melanin. Their answer? Quite possibly, indolyl. A new patent application explains.
Method/Process
IBR Introduces New Data for IBR-Dormin
IBR has introduced new data for IBR-Dormin with ex vivo and in vivo testing proving the ingredient helps slow the growth of hair, while also smoothing and conditioning the skin for both women and men.
Method/Process
ICCVAM Requests Info on Skin Sensitization Testing
The Interagency Coordinating Committee on the Validation of Alternative Methods (ICCVAM) has requested the submission of new science or information on alternative test methods or testing strategies for skin sensitization, as part of a plan of action to advance this area.
Animal Alternatives
REACH and In Vitro Alternatives: Phototoxicity Testing
This is the third column in a continuing discussion regarding the new REACH regulations and their impact on chemical testing. The first appeared in December 2007 and discussed dermal corrosive potential testing; the second, in February 2008, covered dermal irritancy potential testing.
Sun Protection
Quantifying Sunscreens and Preservatives in Cosmetic Products
The authors propose and validate an HPLC method for simultaneous quantitation of commonly used commercial sunscreen actives and preservatives in cosmetic emulsions.
Method/Process
ATP Bioluminescence: Detecting Microbial Contamination in Dentifrices
In tests on eight dentifrice formulations, a bioluminescence system based on adenosine triphosphate (ATP) detected tested microorganisms qualitatively within 24-27 hours, compared to 5-7 days required for quantitative detection by standard methods.
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