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Happy New Year! As we begin 2013, we thought it would be fun to take a look back at your favorite items of 2012. Enjoy!


Ingredient Profile—Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
By: Michael J. Fevola, PhD, Johnson & Johnson
Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride (GHPTC) is one of the most widely used cationic polymers in the personal care industry. GHTPC is employed primarily as a conditioning agent in shampoos and body washes. In many of these rinse-off products, it is also a critical deposition aid for the delivery of active ingredients and hydrophobic conditioning agents, e.g., silicones, to the skin and hair.
Comparatively Speaking: Cosmetic Preservatives
By: Anthony J. O'Lenick, Jr., Siltech, LLC
To serve the novice cosmetic chemist and/or refresh the seasoned formulator, Tony O’Lenick asks Perry Romanowski: Why is cosmetic preservation necessary, and why are preservatives vilified?
Ingredient Profile—Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
By: Michael J. Fevola, PhD, Johnson & Johnson
Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHMC) is among the most frequently used organic ultraviolet (UV) filters, known primarily for its role as an active ingredient in sunscreen products.


EU Regulation No. 1223/2009 Part 2: Prohibited Ingredients, Definitions and More
By: David C. Steinberg, Steinberg & Associates
In total, EC No. 1223/2009, often called the Recast or the 8th Amendment, is comprised of a preamble with 71 parts (justification), 40 articles (replacing the old 15) and 10 annexes (replacing the old nine).
PCPC Responds to Recent Reports of Lead in Lipstick
The Personal Care Product's Council (PCPC) has released a statement in response to the December 2011 study on lead in lipsticks conducted by the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA).


Consumer Perspective: Achieving an Even Skin Tone
By: Katerina Steventon, PhD, FaceWorkshops
Consumers are becoming more aware of the evenness of their skin tone, and it has become an important concern. Consequently, the primary focus of anti-aging skin care has shifted from reducing wrinkles to evening out skin pigmentation
Research Reveals New Stratum Corneum Structure
stratum corneum described at the molecular level Researchers in Sweden have described a new structure and function of the stratum corneum at a molecular level, providing for a deeper understanding of skin diseases as well as the potential for large scale delivery via the skin.
Nanotechnology in Cosmetics: A Review
By: Xiao Wu, PhD, College of Pharmacy, University of Michigan, Ann Arbor, MI, USA
As the commercial applications of nanotechnology have increased in the past decade, a number of nanoparticles are now being used in cosmetic products with optimized sensory attributes and consumer-perceivable benefits. This article reviews various forms of nanoparticles used in the cosmetic industry, discussing their properties, interactions with the skin and potential health effects.

Industry Updates

Finalists Announced for the 2012 Cosmetics & Toiletries R&D Awards
The finalists for the 2012 Cosmetics & Toiletries® R&D Awards have been announced, which honor one new ingredient for its innovative design and/or method of development, and one finished product for the novelty and craft of its formulation and/or application of a technology.
in-cosmetics 2012: Genomics, Holistic Approaches and Old Favorites With a Twist
By: Rachel L. Grabenhofer
Personal care was taken very personally at in-cosmetics in Barcelona, April 17–19, 2012, as ingredient developers took R&D to a painstaking level of detail: the genome. A total of 590 exhibitors showcased everything from nutricosmetics and actives for anti-aging benefits, to new targets, partnerships and holistic approaches to ingredient development. Launches in crucial mainstay ingredients such as formulating aids, sensory materials and staple skin, sun, hair and color ingredients also abounded.