Bright Pearl Complex and Long Radiance Pigment for Enhancing Skin Luminosity

February 16, 2009 | Contact Author | By: N. Portal, J. Guesnet, YSL Beaute; N. Abdul-Malak and E. Perrier, Coletica
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Keywords: Color cosmetics | treated pigments | skin tone luminosity | fluorphlogopite | pearl protein extract | titanium dioxide | perfluorodecalin | guar hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride | fluid air bed coating technology

Abstract: Color fading and dulling of foundation pigments can be avoided by new coating materials and application techniques, as this article demonstrates in the case of a pearl protein extract applied by a fluid air bed coating technology. This technology also treats pigments and fillers to give them optical properties to improve skin radiance.

Mineral powders are the main components of formulations for foundation makeup products. They are essential for obtaining a powdery and matte makeup result and play an important role in the sensory properties of the products (softness, smoothness). However, they have a certain opacity that, at high concentrations, can give makeup a dull appearance.

This lack of luminosity is often accompanied by a bad tone stability which tends to change color during the day.

This phenomenon is due to the use of untreated “raw” pigments, which are rapidly impregnated with sebum and perspiration. Additionally, the pigments migrate into skin imperfections and are partly eliminated from the skin’s surface. These factors cause color fading and dullness in the makeup formulation. New coating techniques such as fl uid air bed coating can provide solutions to these challenges. This technique helps to prevent the dulling of the pigments and their surface elimination through multiple coatings to protect against sebum and boost the substantivity of pigments. It also selects and treats a synthetic mineral powder to improve the optical light refl ective properties of the products.