New approaches to skin cleansing are gaining interest, and modern concepts for wellness respect the body’s and skin’s equilibrium, along with the environment—hence, the wide success of natural ingredients. This has led to the development of new detergent structures for improved benefits. To develop a new, wellness-inspired raw material, the authors began their search with vegetable oils, waxes and vegetal actives.
Choices of vegetable-derived, eco-friendly and mild surfactants are abundant, but, unfortunately, often do not match the level of functionality and exhibit the desirable sensory characteristics of synthetic ingredients. Further, many are incompatible with polymers, conditioning ingredients and traditional surfactants. They also have difficulty in reaching high viscosity values or, in some cases, even reaching a minimum viscosity. There are also too few options for transparent formulae. From a sensory standpoint, the main issues with vegetable-derived and mild surfactants are their foam quality, quantity and stability—key sensory factors for consumers. So, to guarantee a product’s shelf-life and preserve its sensory characteristics, the authors’ search was extended to other ingredient categories.
Beginning with olive and coconut oil fatty chains, sugars from fruits and amino acids, years of systematic trials culminated in a combination of specialized amino acid-fructoside surfactants: olivoyl/cocoyl fructoside (a non-ionic) and sodium olivoyl/cocoyl tetra amino acid (an anionic). This paper will describe the basis for this combination and detail tests conducted to verify the functional, sensorial and mildness characteristics.
Non-ionic portion: The lipid structures of olivoyl/cocoyl fructosides are made up of the natural chain blends present in olive and coconut oils. Olive oil was selected for its high amount of mono-unsaturated fatty acids (75%) and because it is well-known for its compatibility with the human body. Moreover, its lipid moiety contributes emollient effects, normalizing and protecting skin. Coconut oil, also widely used for its emollient properties, has been found to moisturize atopically dermatitic skin while also removing Staphylococcus aureus. This effect is probably due to its lauric acid, which is known to kill bacteria and fungi.