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New in Method Development/Validation (page 1 of 22)
Dec 09, 2013 | 03:47 PM CST
By: Joe Schwarcz, PhD; McGill University, Montréal…
As far as the public is concerned, hypothetical risks are real. And if anyone studies a chemical in depth, they can find some effect but whether it should be removed from the market comes down to a risk-benefit analysis. Cosmetic formulation is a continuous process of keeping in step with research, and when a true risk emerges, addressing it.
Dec 09, 2013 | 03:46 PM CST
By: Estelle Loing, PhD, and Magali Borel; Lucas Me…
In humans, the ZAG protein is a modulator of fat mobilization. The present paper identifies an unroasted shea butter extract, enriched in viminalol esters, as a stimulator of ZAG expression and secretion by keratinocytes in vitro. Further, a complex containing the extract is shown to significantly improve the appearance of cellulite within 28 days of application in a clinical setting.
Dec 09, 2013 | 03:41 PM CST
By: Luigi Rigano, PhD, and Nicola Lionetti; Rigano…
A novel safe hydrotrope and wetting agent with exceptional skin feel is evaluated here for its solvent power and versatility in cosmetic formulas. Key features examined are sensory properties, hair feel modification and improvement of foam performance in skin cleansers.
Dec 09, 2013 | 03:38 PM CST
By: M Chulasiri, PhD, P Santiparaphop and V Teeran…
The present article discusses facial powder containing specific layered color-travel pigments that give a color-flop effect due to light reflectance at different angles. In particular, layering a bluish silver pigment with a sienna pigment is shown to highlight the forehead, cheek and nasal bridge while shading the jaw, chin and alar base of the nose, consequently imparting a slim-looking appearance.
Dec 09, 2013 | 03:36 PM CST
By: Trefor Evans, PhD
In the mechanical testing world, the tendency for materials to fail under a repeated stimulus is termed fatigue testing, and this article discusses this topic in relation to hair breakage. It will be shown that this alternative testing approach provides considerable insight into the cause of hair breakage, and subsequently allows for the identification of strategies for its minimization; it will also be demonstrated how learning this provides the underlying theory by which anti-breakage and even “strengthening” claims are crafted.
Dec 09, 2013 | 03:31 PM CST
By: Chris Dederen, Jennifer Donahue and Cornelis V…
This paper describes an approach to systematically investigate the intrinsic effects of emulsifiers, quantify them and translate them into consumer preferences. These are processed mathematically and displayed in a simplified, two-dimensional map to assist formulation work.
Dec 09, 2013 | 03:28 PM CST
By: Audris Chiang, Farhaan Hafeez and Howard I. Ma…
To optimally treat acne, an accurate severity assessment is required1 and while visual assessments have relied on text descriptions, lesion counting and photographic methods, an ideal grading system would be more accurate and reproducible. Further, its ease of use, and time and monetary costs are also important. Here, the authors consider different approaches for improved acne assessments using photography.
Nov 04, 2013 | 02:45 PM CST
By: Arthur Georgalas, Georgalas Endeavors
The essential elements of a natural hair styling liquid or gel are: a film-forming substance to keep hair in place, and a base to deliver it. This base may be as simple as thickened water or as complex as a gel or cream.
Nov 04, 2013 | 02:44 PM CST
By: Peter Tsolis, The Estée Lauder Companies; and …
Troubleshooting most stability concerns in cosmetic formulations typically starts at the usual raw material classes comprising the skin care and makeup ingredient list. In skin care systems, the emulsification system, thickening ingredients, actives and emollients are usually examined. In a makeup formulation, structural items such as waxes and fillers are usually reviewed, as well as film-formers and colorants.
Nov 04, 2013 | 02:43 PM CST
By: Trefor A. Evans, TA Evans LLC; and Jennifer M.…
As the smallest alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), glycolic acid is frequently found in anti-aging products due to its ability to penetrate skin and reduce wrinkles, acne scarring, hyperpigmentation and other conditions. This work describes how it is also able to penetrate into hair and, in doing so, bring about a number of changes to the internal fiber properties.