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Method Development/Validation

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Feb 26, 2015 | 11:42 AM CST

Innovation Upgrade

By: Rachel Grabenhofer, Cosmetics & Toiletries…

The cosmetics industry faces upgrading innovation to meet the high expectations of such digi-centric consumers. It’s a good thing cosmetic scientists are consumers, too, and following these tech trends, they’ve helped push the industry ahead in new ways.

Feb 26, 2015 | 09:57 AM CST

Balancing Texture with Electrolyte Resistance for Improved Thickening

By: Ryosuke Murakami, Yusuke Nishikawa and Yuichir…

Described here are two acrylic rheology modifiers for novel thickening properties in formulations. A pre-neutralized carbomer is shown to impart a lighter, smoother texture than traditional carbomer while increasing process flexibility. In addition, a new associative acrylate/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer exhibits thickening in high electrolyte media, acts synergistically with surfactants, and facilitates the dispersion of fillers.

Feb 26, 2015 | 09:31 AM CST

Considerations for Phospholipid Emulsifiers

By: Peter Tsolis, The Estée Lauder Companies; and …

Phospholipids have become indispensable ingredients in the personal care industry, not only for their primary emulsification function, but also for their delivery, moisturization and anti-irritant benefits. This column reviews the characteristics of phospholipids, addresses potential formulation issues with them, and suggests potential methods to overcome these issues.

Feb 25, 2015 | 02:24 PM CST

A One-step Approach for Anti-aging Prevention and Treatment

By: Philippe Mondon, Emmanuel Doridot, Andre Nada …

New research suggests curative and preventative approaches to anti-aging in skin care are closer than they appear. Here, the authors investigate a combination of Pal-GHK and Pal-GQPR peptides, which is designed to leverage both approaches in one step. Described are in vitro, ex vivo and clinical studies of its effects on collagen, fibronectin, HA synthesis and tissue repair activity.

Feb 25, 2015 | 01:55 PM CST

A Novel Explant Model for Skin Delivery Assessment

By: Lucie Duracher, PhD; Lene Visdal-Johnsen, PhD;…

Mechanisms implied in the skin absorption process and the role of cutaneous metabolism are of increasing interest to cosmetics research. In the present paper, the authors demonstrate how an experimental human skin explant model exhibiting great barrier function and metabolic activities can provide an understanding of what happens to cosmetic actives when they are topically applied.

Feb 25, 2015 | 01:39 PM CST

Atopic Dermatitis—Part I: Early Research and Causes

By: Rosa Marie Andersen, MD; and Howard I. Maibach…

This column is the first in a two-part series on atopic dermatitis (AD), a common, chronic inflammatory skin disease. Here, the authors will review early research and delve into causes of AD to support a future column on AD criteria and investigation.

Feb 25, 2015 | 10:13 AM CST

10 Years of Collaboration for the Sustainable Use of Argan

By: BASF Care Chemicals

The argan tree—a secluded, fragile natural resource in Southern Morocco–has become a shining example of how blending business, ecological preservation and fair trade collaboration can result in a viable consumer product that enhances the economic lifestyle of those who produce it as well as preserving a specific ecosystem niche.

Feb 25, 2015 | 09:01 AM CST

Preserving Preservatives

By: Chris Flower, PhD, Cosmetic, Toiletry & Perfum…

There is a growing trend toward questioning the need for preservatives. This is worrisome, as most cosmetic products require preservatives to adequately protect them from contamination by microorganisms. This column looks at how microbes grow, how preservatives prevent them, and the process and environment needed to effectively and safely preserve personal care.

Feb 25, 2015 | 08:45 AM CST

2015 Consumer Trends: Cause-conscious and Genetically Modified

By: Jeff Falk

Today’s consumers are socially conscious, electronically proficient and inherently multi-tasking. They want the most for their money, but are willing to pay for convenience and efficiency. Where will this lead product developers? The following overview provides some answers.

Feb 24, 2015 | 03:23 PM CST

Research Suggests a Need for After-sun Sunscreen

By: Cosmetics & Toiletries editors

According to a report from Yale, the damage caused by UV radiation continues hours after the sun exposure occurred. In the described study, melanocytes generated CPDs both immediately and hours after UV exposure had ended. This may suggest the need for “evening-after” sunscreen, designed to block energy-transfer.