In vitro

Marigold Extract Photoprotection Breakthrough

Jun 11, 2015

Kemin reported new in vitro studies confirm the blue-light-absorbing capacity of its marigold-derived FloraGLO Lutein Topical product.

A Novel Explant Model for Skin Delivery Assessment

Mar 1, 2015Lucie Duracher, PhD; Lene Visdal-Johnsen, PhD; and Alain Mavon, PhD; Oriflame Cosmetics AB, Skin Research Institute: Sandrine Kurdykowski, PhD; and Pascal Descargues, PhD; Genoskin

Mechanisms implied in the skin absorption process and the role of cutaneous metabolism are of increasing interest to cosmetics research. In the present paper, the authors demonstrate how an experimental human skin explant model exhibiting great barrier function and metabolic activities can provide an understanding of what happens to cosmetic actives when they are topically applied.

Zeta Potential and Particle Size to Predict Emulsion Stability

Nov 19, 2014A.P. Gasparelo†, ‡; C. Dal Pizzol†; P. Fernanda Campos de Menezes†; R.V. Knapik†; M.A. Trindade Costa†; M.R. Machado Prado‡; and C.E. de Oliveira Praes†; † Grupo Boticário, São José dos Pinhais, Brazil; and ‡ Faculdades Pequeno Príncipe, Curitiba, Brazil

Emulsions are popular vehicles in skin care due to their affinity for the skin; however, they are thermodynamically unstable systems. This study investigates zeta potential and particle size distribution as potential screening tools to predict instabilities in emulsion-based cosmetic products, to supplement regular accelerated stability testing.

Collagens I and III, and Elastin Activation for Anti-aging

Feb 24, 2014D. Auriol and G. Redziniak Libragen; and H. Chajra, K. Schweikert and F. Lefevre, Induchem

As an alternative to semi-invasive facial rejuvenation techniques, the authors developed an active ingredient to reactivate senescent fibroblasts by stimulating metabolic pathways for collagens I and III, and elastin. The biological activity of the resulting ingredient is investigated here using in vitro models, ex vivo explants and human volunteers.

Measuring the Water Content of Hair

Feb 21, 2014Trefor A Evans, T.A Evans LLC

Consumers have demonstrated a clear desire for hair that isn’t “dried out” while also demonstrating a clear distaste for the effects of high humidity on hair. To find the balance in creating products, it is necessary to have an accurate means of measuring hair’s water content. This article describes equipment used to perform this task while highlighting experimental variables that can produce suspect results and lead to incorrect conclusions.

Analyzing Deposition from Rinse-off Hair Products

Jan 13, 2014Qing Huang, Zhen-Wu Mei, Koji Takata and Jianzhong Yang, Beauty & Health Innovation Co., Ltd.

The most common approach to determine ingredient deposition on hair is to analyze the treated tresses, but this poses several challenges. Instead, the authors describe a novel approach based on determining the amount of ingredient collected in the rinse water, and back-calculating the amount deposited on hair. Development and validation efforts discussed here use polydimethylsiloxane as a model compound.

Assessing the Impact of Hair Damage Types on Color Retention

Jun 1, 2013Denis Bendejacq, PhD, Solvay

This article reviews and assesses damage types caused to hair before and after artificial coloration, i.e., by bleaching, perming, heat treatment, UV exposure and shampooing, to compare how they impact color durability individually and combined. Formulation emerges as the key to designing shampoos that efficiently deliver actives to improve color protection against these and other damage types.

Mature and Immature Corneocyte Detection Force Distance Curves vs. Microfluorometry

May 1, 2013Anthony J. Ribaudo

Here, the author compares two methods to determine the maturity of corneocytes based on their cross-linking that could be used to evaluate the anti-aging effects of molecular agents. The first utilizes microfluorometry, while the second involves F-D curves generated via contact mode AFM. Both methods successfully detected differences in mature or immature corneocytes with 95% confidence.

‘How Did THAT Get in There?’ Identifying Particulate Contamination in Products and Packaging

Nov 1, 2012

Particulate contamination and discoloration may occur in products due to foreign materials introduced via raw materials or during the manufacturing process. Agglomeration or reactions between ingredients and packaging components also are possible sources. The identification of contaminants and their origin, described here, is therefore critical so that future incidents can be prevented and safety or regulatory concerns can be addressed.

Detecting Estrogenic Endocrine Disruptors in Personal Care Products and Supplements

Sep 1, 2012John D. Gordon, PhD, and Andrew Chu, Research Triangle Park, NC USA

Endocrine disruptor chemicals (EDCs) are a class of chemicals that has raised alarm for being linked to a wide variety of detrimental effects on human and wildlife populations, e.g., cancers, precocious puberty and obesity. Thus, there is a need to test personal care products and supplements for EDCs, which can be accomplished using the validated bioassay described here.

Screening Botanical Ingredients: Challenges and Opportunities

Jul 1, 2012Patricia da Luz Moreira, PhD, Natura Inovaçã e Tecnologia de Produtos Ltda., São Paulo, Brazil

Botanical ingredients are interesting for their unique and complementary chemical diversities yet they are criticized for these very traits, which make quality assurance, reproducibility and good phytochemical characterization—required for successful high throughput screening, difficult. This article discusses these challenges as well as the benefits of large-scale screenings of botanical extracts that are currently used or developed for cosmetic product development.

Method to Reproduce In vitro Cosmetic Product Photostability Findings

Mar 1, 2012Marc Pissavini, PhD, Adeline Baud, Stéphanie Marguerie, Karine Desseille and Olivier Doucet, PhD, Coty-Lancaster

The present article describes a reproducible method for determining the photostability of sunscreen products. This method is based in part on the in vitro determination of the UVA protection factor as proposed by Colipa for the irradiation aspect, and on the spectroscopy of a sunscreen in dilute solution for the absorbance measurement aspect.

Hair Color Vibrance Factor to Characterize Shine and Color Intensity*

Jan 1, 2012Timothy Gao, PhD; Peter Landa; Regan Tillou; and Kevin Gallagher, Croda Inc.

To evaluate the comprehensive effects of shine and color intensity in hair, a hair color vibrance factor has been developed to enable new claims for hair dye formulas and after-dye treatments. Experimental results described here show how varying the ingredients in shine spray and hair dye formulas affect this factor and correlate with subjective panelist assessments.

Wise Words From the Bench With Sergio Nacht, PhD

Nov 1, 2011Katie Anderson (Schaefer), Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine

Today, product formulation goes hand in hand with efficacy testing, but nearly 40 years ago, when Sergio Nacht, PhD, started out in the personal care industry, it was a different story. Throughout his decades in personal care, Nacht has developed methodologies that have allowed the personal care industry to establish efficacy of a product and convey this to the consumer. He has also been instrumental in the increased efficacy of personal care products through sustained release.

A Review of Genomic Techniques in Cosmetics Testing

Feb 1, 2011Remona Gopaul,*† Helen Knaggs, PhD,* and R. Randall Wickett, PhD†, *Nu Skin Enterprises, †College of Pharmacy, University of Cincinnati

Genomics assists product developers in understanding the expression of specific genes and their relationship to particular skin attributes. This article reviews commonly used testing techniques, such as DNA microarray, RT-PCR, SAGE, northern blot and RNA sequencing, and describes their application in testing the effects of cosmetic ingredients and products on skin.

Fluorescence LSCM to Assess the Penetration of Low Molecular Protein Hydrolyzates Into Hair

Nov 1, 2010Olga Freis and Dominique Gauché, Laboratoires Sérobiologiques division of Cognis; and Ute Griesbach and Hans-Martin Haake, Cognis

The present study uses confocal laser scanning fluorescence microscopy to assess the penetration of protein hydrolyzates into hair. While higher amounts of protein were found in the cuticle, still significant quantities were observed in the cortical parts of hair, and this penetration was enhanced by longer incubation times.

Antiaging in a Different Light: Assessing How Chromophores Color Perception

Aug 1, 2010Philippe Mondon, Nada André, Emmanuel Doridot, Olga Gracioso and Karl Lintner, PhD, Sederma SAS

Aging influences cutaneous parameters that give rise to progressive changes in three skin chromophores, altering the visual homogeneity of skin. To address these changes, the authors developed and examined the effects of a complex based on Siegesbeckia orientalis and Rabdosia rubescens using a novel skin imaging technique.

Evaluating Water Permeability and Occlusion in Wound Dressings and Topical Cosmetics

Jul 1, 2009Hongbo Zhai, MD, and Howard I. Maibach, MD, University of California

The present study uses an evaporimeter to measure the degree of water loss from in vitro skin samples covered by occlusive and semi-occlusive wound dressings to serve as a model for determining the effectiveness of occlusive cosmetic formulations. The purpose of this work was to develop a model for determining the effectiveness of occlusive cosmetic formulations.

DNA: Hard Evidence of Cosmeceutical Claims

May 1, 2009Katie Schaefer, Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine

To support finished product or raw material claims these two in vitro methods—the Affymetrix microarray and the Taqman Real Time Polymerase Chain Reaction (PCR)—measure the up-regulation or down-regulation of genes.

In Vitro Model for Decontamination of Human Skin

Apr 1, 2009Hongbo Zhai, MD, University of California; and Howard I. Maibach, MD, University of California School of Medicine

The present study utilized an in vitro model to compare the decontamination capacity of three model decontaminant solutions: tap water, isotonic saline and hypertonic saline. Human cadaver skin samples were dosed with radio-labeled [14C]-formaldehyde and the surface skin of each sample was washed after each exposure with one of the three model decontaminant solutions.

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