Hair Color Vibrance Factor to Characterize Shine and Color Intensity*

Jan 1, 2012 | Contact Author | By: Timothy Gao, PhD; Peter Landa; Regan Tillou; and Kevin Gallagher, Croda Inc.
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Title: Hair Color Vibrance Factor to Characterize Shine and Color Intensity*
hair color vibrance factorx color intensityx hair shinex chromax overlapping coefficientx
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Keywords: hair color vibrance factor | color intensity | hair shine | chroma | overlapping coefficient

Abstract: To evaluate the comprehensive effects of shine and color intensity in hair, a hair color vibrance factor has been developed to enable new claims for hair dye formulas and after-dye treatments. Experimental results described here show how varying the ingredients in shine spray and hair dye formulas affect this factor and correlate with subjective panelist assessments.

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Luster or shine is an important feature of hair’s appearance and this visual effect is a key objective in the consumer hair care market. Color strength is another important attribute for colored hair but no parameter or test method has previously been developed to combine the two and enable quantified vibrancy claims. In relation, based on work by Lefaudeux et al., in the present article, the authors define a new parameter for such claims, the hair color vibrance factor (HCVF).

Technical Background

Lefaudeux et al. published on principles for measuring hair luster (shine) using a device designed to measure scattering sources on a hair tressa.1, 2 As shown in Figure 1, the researchers indicated two bands that were captured in images of colored hair: the shine band or first reflection with no color; and the chroma band or second reflection with color. From these observations, the researchers defined an overlapping coefficient to describe the overlapping degrees between shine and chroma (see Figure 2 on Page 50). It was also observed that after hair was treated with certain cosmetics, this coefficient increased and corresponded with shinier, richer color.

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This content is adapted from an article in GCI Magazine. The original version can be found here.

 

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Table 1. Value of L, Oc and HCVF of different colored hair samples

Table 1. Value of L, Oc and HCVF of different colored hair samples

  White Blond Bleached Brown Black Auburn Deep Red
 1.69  8.45  6.46  31.5  34.6  7.68  13.4
Oc  99.00  80.80  86.10  77.8  89.5  70.90  60.2
 HCVF  3.36 15.30  12.00  52.9  65.6  13.10  21.5

 

 

Table 2. Changes in L, Oc and HCVF of different hair color shades after spraying

Table 2. Changes in L, Oc and HCVF of different hair color shades after spraying

   White  Blond  Bleached Black  Auburn  Deep Red 
ΔL (%)   45.0  98.80  157  3.47  70.6  45.5
 ΔOc (%)  0.1  4.58  0  4.47  23.3  24.8
 ΔHCVF (%)  44.9  103.00  157  5.65  87.0  59.1

 

 

Table 3. Formulas for vibrant dark and natural black dye

Table 3. Formulas for vibrant dark and natural black dye

 Ingredient  Vibrant Black  Natural Black
 Water (aqua)  25.2% w/w  26.89% w/w
 Sodium Sulfite  0.4  0.4
 EDTA  0.07  0.07
 L-Ascorbic Acid  0.4  0.4
 Toluene-2,5-Diamine Sulfate  3.17  2.2
 Resorcinol  0.72  0.58
 m-Aminophenol  0.64  0.44
 2,4-diaminophenoxyethanol Sulfate  0.58  0.2
 Isopropyl Alcohol  18.0  18.0
 Sorbitan Isostearate  5.0  5.0
 Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine  5.0  5.0
 Acetamide MEA (Incromectant AMEA-100, Croda)  1.02  1.02
 Cocoamidopropyl Betaine  5.0  5.0
 Oleyl Alcohol  10.0  10.0
 Oleic Acid  6.0  6.0
 Oleth-5 Phosphate (and) Dioleyl Phosphate  4.0  4.0
 PPG-5-Ceteth-20  2.0  2.0
 PEG-3 Dioleoylamidoethylmonium Methosulfate  1.8  1.8
 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein (and) Hydrolyzed Wheat Starch  0.5  0.5
 Wheat Amino Acids  0.5  0.5
 Ammonia, 28%  10.0  10.0
   100.0  100.0

 

Table 4. HCVF values of natural black and vibrant black hair

Table 4. HCVF values of natural black and vibrant black hair

Hair Dye Formula HCVF Oc (%) Shine (L) L* b*
Natural Black 50.6 97.5 25.6 20.1 -0.60
Vibrant Black 54.6 98.6 27.5 18.5 -2.19

* L and b* were determined by the XE Spectrocolorimeter, manufactured by LabScan Analytical Science, Gliwice, Poland.

Figure 1. Interactions between light and a human hair fiber2

Figure 1. Interactions between light and a human hair fiber2

Figure 2. Complete decomposition of light into shine, chroma and diffusion

Figure 2. Complete decomposition of light into shine, chroma and diffusion

Figure 3a. Typical light spectrums of untreated black hair

Figure 3a. Typical light spectrums of untreated black hair

Figure 3b. Typical light spectrums of untreated brown hair

Figure 3b. Typical light spectrums of untreated brown hair

Figure 3c. Typical light spectrums of untreated red hair samples

Figure 3c. Typical light spectrums of untreated red hair samples

Figure 3d. Typical light spectrums of untreated blond hair sample

Figure 3d. Typical light spectrums of untreated blond hair sample

Figure 4a. Typical hair images and light spectrums of auburn-colored hair before treatment

Figure 4a. Typical hair images and light spectrums of auburn-colored hair before

Figure 4b. Typical hair images and light spectrums of auburn-colored hair after treatment

Figure 4b. Typical hair images and light spectrums of auburn-colored hair after treatment

Figure 4c. Typical hair images and light spectrums of deep red-colored hair before treatment

Figure 4c. Typical hair images and light spectrums of deep red-colored hair before treatment

Figure 4d. Typical hair images and light spectrums of deep red-colored hair after treatment

Figure 4d. Typical hair images and light spectrums of deep red-colored hair after treatment

Figure 5. Auburn-dyed hair samples, a) without treatment, b) treatment with Sample B and c) treatment with Sample C

Figure 5. Auburn-dyed hair samples, a) without treatment, b) treatment with Sample B and c) treatment with Sample C

Figure 6. HCVF values of hair samples

Figure 6. HCVF values of hair samples

Figure 7. Panelists’ preferences of hair samples

Figure 7. Panelists’ preferences of hair samples

Figure 8a. Images of natural black and vibrant black hair; hair images from the hair systema

Figure 8a. Images of natural black and vibrant black hair; hair images from the hair systema

c Superior Preference

c Superior Preference is a hair dye manufactured by L’Oréal USA, New York, USA.

a SAMBA Hair System

a SAMBA Hair System is a device manufactured by Bossa Nova Technologies, Venice, Calif., USA.

b Tresses were purchased...

b Tresses were purchased from International Hair Importers Inc., New York, USA.

d Clairol’s Herbal Essences Hair Color

d Clairol’s Herbal Essences Hair Color is a hair dye manufactured by Procter & Gamble, Cincinnati, USA.

e SC182 is a hair shine spray

e SC182 is a hair shine spray prepared by Croda Application Group, Edison, N.J., USA.

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