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In vitro
Lab Lessons—Wise Words From the Bench With Sergio Nacht, PhD
By: Katie Anderson (Schaefer), Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine
Posted: October 28, 2011, from the November 2011 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.
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C&T: Describe the role between the formulator and the testing team?
The formulator, biochemist and marketer are in a marriage, and there has to be communication. If the partners do not communicate, things go bad. The formulator makes a prototypical formulation, which has to be tested for safety and efficacy. If it works, then marketing has to evaluate whether it likes it or not. If the product does not perform, then the biochemist goes back to the formulator to reformulate. Everybody has to be happy with the product.
C&T: What has been one of your biggest challenges in personal care?
The biggest challenge is always communication and developing a good rapport among all the parties involved. Sometimes you have to be the villain if everyone loved the product but it showed to be irritating in safety testing.
C&T: What advice would you give biochemists just starting in the industry?
I would tell them to study the biophysical attributes of the skin and hair. Books are essential, but academic research is a great source. Scientific meetings are also a great source of information.
C&T: What has changed since you began in efficacy testing?
There are more novel and sensitive instruments to measure skin attributes. That is due, in part, to the use of computers, which has helped tremendously. There are very significant improvements in the methodologies and the instrumentation used to measure properties of the skin. Digital photography has been a tremendous bonus to demonstrate before-and-after effects.
