Build a solid foundation in science, formulation and product development—find out more!
Most Popular in:
Lab Lessons—Wise Words From the Bench With Sergio Nacht, PhD
By: Katie Anderson (Schaefer), Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine
Posted: October 28, 2011, from the November 2011 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.
page 2 of 3
C&T: What was the biggest lesson you learned in your first position?
The biggest lesson that I learned is that well-formulated consumer products are efficacious. I came to the industry with the attitude that the personal care industry was selling what Charles Revson called “hope in a jar.” The key is that if hope does not get realized, the consumer will not buy that product again. What moves this industry is a repeat purchase.
C&T: What do you see as a current challenge for the formulator?
The challenge to the formulator today is to utilize novel ingredients that are coming every day, and to discriminate the real from the hype. There is a lot of hype in the industry, but there is a lot of science. The formulator needs to discriminate and learn to maximize the efficacy by formulating with those ingredients adequately to obtain better products.
C&T: What technology that you helped develop are you most proud of?
In 1987, I moved to a company called Advanced Polymer Systems. There, I was co-inventor of a unique technology used in topical care for sustained release called Microspongea. We developed the next generation of retin A, called retin A micro. We also developed the first stable retinol formulation. My experience in testing helped me in the development of this technology, as one of my areas of expertise was measuring the penetration of active ingredients.
C&T: Has the microsponge been used for other technologies?
I worked with Cardinal Health to develop unidose capsules for topical applications using our delivery technology and their gelatin capsule technology (now owned by Catalent). It uses the delivery technology to entrap retinol and peptides in the perfect dosing for an anti-aging effect.
C&T: How did the microsponge technology evolve?
We were trying to develop a novel microencapsulation technique for oils. We ended up with a sponge and realized the enormous potential of that product. In research, you always need a little bit of luck, but you also have to be smart enough to recognize the opportunity.