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Most Recent in Testing

EC, EFSA to Examine Endocrine Disruptors

May 29, 2015

The European Commission Directorate General for Health and Food Safety will hold a one-day conference in Brussels on June 1, 2015, to determine the criteria to identify endocrine disruptors and the European Food Safety Authority will participate.

Analytical Techniques for Hyaluronic Acid Formulation

May 15, 2015John Duffy, Ph.D., and Bassem Sabagh, Ph.D., Malvern Instruments, Worcestershire, UK

This article reviews the characteristics and structure of hyaluronic acid (HA), then explores how multi-detector gel permeation/size exclusion chromatography (GPC/SEC) and microrheology techniques can be jointly applied to determine the structure-function relationships that support the successful inclusion of HA in cosmetic formulations. Experimental studies are provided to highlight the value of these techniques.

3D Printed Skin Animal Test Alternative

May 8, 2015

San Diego-based Organovo announced a partnership with cosmetics giant L'Oréal to develop 3D bioprinted skin tissue for the beauty product testing.

Taiwan Proposes Animal Testing Ban for Cosmetics

Apr 28, 2015

Legislator Wang Yu-min and the Taiwan Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (SPCA) proposed a bill advocating the #BeCrueltyFree Taiwan campaign, which would ban the animal testing of cosmetics in Taiwan.

Defining and Controlling Frizz

Apr 20, 2015Trefor Evans, PhD, T.A Evans Inc., Princeton, NJ USA

There is likely a variety of causes and contributors to the nebulous consumer term “frizz.” This article attempts to craft a universal definition and then progresses to further examine impacting factors. These discussions focus on methods for quantifying hair properties and assessing the positive impact of commercial hair care products.

Sea Anemone Delivery of Collagen and γ-PGA for Anti-aging Benefits

Apr 7, 2015Yossi Tal, PhD, Einav Danon and Amir Toren, PhD, StarletDerma Ltd., Caesarea, Israel; and Alain Khaiat, PhD, Seers Consulting, Singapore

The effective delivery of youth-preserving collagen and moisture remains a cosmetic Holy Grail. In response, this study describes a natural microinjection system based on the stinging cells of the Cnidaria sea anemone to effectively puncture the stratum corneum layer and deliver its content—both marine collagen and γ-PGA—into skin, offering a promising new class of solutions to age-old challenges.

Smart Lipid-carotene System for Targeted Free Radical-Scavenging

Mar 30, 2015G. Rodríguez, M. Cócera, L. Barbosa-Barros, E. Fernández, A. de la Maza and O. López,

In this study, the authors evaluated the effectiveness of a new smart lipid system in stabilizing and delivering carotenes into the epidermis. The system is shown effective in providing free-radical (FR) scavenging at different stages of skin exposure: immediately neutralizing FR present in the skin, blocking FR formation during UV exposure, and accelerating skin recovery after UV exposure.

Lucas Meyer Measures Consumer Response to Phospholipid Emulsifier

Mar 11, 2015

A study conducted by Lucas Meyer revealed that its phospholipid emulsifiers were capable of invoking positive emotion.

A Novel Explant Model for Skin Delivery Assessment

Mar 1, 2015Lucie Duracher, PhD; Lene Visdal-Johnsen, PhD; and Alain Mavon, PhD; Oriflame Cosmetics AB, Skin Research Institute: Sandrine Kurdykowski, PhD; and Pascal Descargues, PhD; Genoskin

Mechanisms implied in the skin absorption process and the role of cutaneous metabolism are of increasing interest to cosmetics research. In the present paper, the authors demonstrate how an experimental human skin explant model exhibiting great barrier function and metabolic activities can provide an understanding of what happens to cosmetic actives when they are topically applied.

Quantifying Hair Color Fading

Jan 29, 2015Trefor A Evans, PhD, T.A. Evans LLC

Around 10-12 years ago, shampoos and conditioners began appearing on the market claiming to be “color safe.” This strongly resonated with consumers. The present article discusses various contributors to the color fade process with a specific emphasis on measurements to quantify and understand color fade.

South Korea May Be Ending Animal Testing for Cosmetics

Jan 13, 2015

Reports are circulating that South Korea's Ministry of Agriculture, Food and Rural Affairs (MAFRA) has published a "5 Year Plan for Animal Welfare" that establishes a plan to phase out animal testing for cosmetic products and eventually cosmetic ingredients.

Zeta Potential and Particle Size to Predict Emulsion Stability

Nov 19, 2014A.P. Gasparelo†, ‡; C. Dal Pizzol†; P. Fernanda Campos de Menezes†; R.V. Knapik†; M.A. Trindade Costa†; M.R. Machado Prado‡; and C.E. de Oliveira Praes†; † Grupo Boticário, São José dos Pinhais, Brazil; and ‡ Faculdades Pequeno Príncipe, Curitiba, Brazil

Emulsions are popular vehicles in skin care due to their affinity for the skin; however, they are thermodynamically unstable systems. This study investigates zeta potential and particle size distribution as potential screening tools to predict instabilities in emulsion-based cosmetic products, to supplement regular accelerated stability testing.

Hair as a Test Substrate

Nov 12, 2014Trefor A. Evans, PhD; TA Evans LLC, Princeton, NJ USA

Hair is a distinctly variable material, and the nature of this substrate can have a major impact on laboratory test results. This article discusses hair as a laboratory substrate to provide guidance on minimizing variability and creating optimal test conditions.

L'Oréal Obtains Business License to Market Chinese Episkin

Oct 8, 2014

L'Oréal was granted a Chinese business license for Shanghai Episkin Biotechnology Ltd., the company it created to market the Asian version of its reconstructed skin model Episkin.

Non-Invasive Measurement of Epidermal Proteins for Psoriasis and Skin Care*

Sep 17, 2014M.S. Leo, S. Fitzmaurice, H.I. Maibach, MD, and W. Liao, University of California, San Francisco, CA USA; C.L. Emson, G. Lindwall, K.W. Li and S.M. Turner, Kinemed Inc., Emeryville, CA USA; and M.K. Hellerstein, University of California, Berkeley, CA US

Abnormal epidermal turnover in psoriatic skin impairs its barrier function and tissue repair capabilities. Therefore, studies of hyperkeratinization and hyperproliferation have been conducted to better understand the disease. Here, the administration of heavy water and a tape-stripping method are used to measure skin protein turnover in psoriatic skin and surrounding tissues. Results demonstrate benefits over other proliferation measurements.

Improving the UV Exposure of Sunscreen During In vitro Testing

Aug 25, 2014Sébastien Miksa, Dominique Lutz and Céline Guy, HelioScreen

In any sun protection evaluation method, an irradiation step is required to determine the photostability of the UV filters in a product. The aim of this study was to identify key parameters involved to improve this UV exposure. Here, the authors consider temperature at the substrate surface, air flow influence and beam uniformity during UV exposition.

Quantifying the Performance of Hair Styling Products—Part 2

Aug 21, 2014Trefor Evans, PhD, TA Evans LLC

A previous article discussed traditional measurements to assess the properties of hair spray products. However, the properties of polymer films deposited by these products are not constant and can be altered by both formulation means and environmental conditions. This article highlights additional useful measurement techniques for characterizing these film properties.

Testing and Developing a Sugar-derived Surfactant Blend for Delicate Skin

Jul 1, 2014Luigi Rigano, PhD, and Nicola Lionetti, Rigano Industrial Consulting and Research, Milan, Italy; Adriana Bonfigli, PhD, ISPE Srl, Milan, Italy; Giambattista Rastrelli, PhD, Kalichem Italia Srl, Botticino Sera, Brescia, Italy; and Andrea Baratto, Unifarco Srl, Santa Giustina, Belluno, Italy

Vegetable-derived, mild and sustainable skin cleansing ingredients are in demand, and this has led to the development of new detergent structures. Described here is a combination of two mild surfactants that fulfils these requirements using the concept of “interrupted soap” to impart mildness. Studies to verify the functional, sensorial and mild characteristics of the new blend are detailed.

From the Archives … Flexabrasion: A Method for Evaluating Hair Strength

Jun 1, 2014J. Alan Swift, University of Liverpool, Liverpool UK; Surinder P. Chahal and Debra L. Coulson, Croda Colloids Ltd., Ditton, Cheshire UK; Nicholas I. Challoner, Croda Oleochemicals Ltd., Goole, East Yorkshire UK

From the December 2001 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries, this article describes how both bending and abrasion should be tested–along with extension–when evaluating hair strength, as the authors show here in tests of an active developed to increase the strength of bleached hair.

Quantifying the Performance of Hair Styling Products—Part 1

May 20, 2014Trefor A. Evans, PhD, TA Evans LLC, Princeton, NJ

There are two general classifications of hair styling products—those that help with style creation and those that prolong the style. Both facilitating style creation and promoting hold longevity stem from the presence of water-soluble polymers in formulations. This paper discusses methods to evaluate these properties and quantify performance.

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Apply Topically: A Guide to Formulating

Apply Topically: A Guide to Formulating

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Coloring the Cosmetic World

Coloring the Cosmetic World book cover

Finally! A practical resource on cosmetic pigments in one book. Edwin B. Faulkner offers a comprehensive look at what goes into selecting colors for decorative cosmetic products. Order your copy today.