Nutricosmetics: Feeding the Skin

By: Bud Brewster, Cosmetics & Toiletries

Posted: January 30, 2009, from the February 2009 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.

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The foods industry has the science. For example, BASF is already using food science technology in skin care, according to Serge Rogasik, global marketing director for BASF Beauty Care Solutions. “Several of our most successful topical products have roots in the nutrition world. Retinol and caffeine are obvious examples, but the dill extract behind the Lys’lastine^d concept or Smartvector UV CE^e are all based on food technologies,” Rogasik told C&T magazine. (See Marketing Nutricosmetics for additional comments from Rogasik.)

The pharmaceuticals industry has the science. The only academic department known to this columnist with a scientific focus on nutricosmetics is the Department of Pharmaceutical Technology, Biopharmaceutics & Nutricosmetics, at the Free University of Berlin. At least one member of that department, R.H. Müller, has published in cosmetics and personal care technical journals, but his subject was nanotechnology, not nutricosmetics. One might even argue that Berlin has the science, because both Free University and Gruenwald are located in that city.

Europe has reason to obtain the science. It is the largest nutricosmetics market, representing 55% of the $1.5 billion world market, with 41% going to Japan and 3% to the United States, according to Kline & Company in 2008.¹ With the publication of the EU Health Claims Directive (EU 1924/2006), standardized scientific evaluation and evidence of product-related health claims became a legal requirement across Europe in 2006. Gruenwald argues that more proven scientific background on product usage required by that directive will improve the image of the nutricosmetics segment.

Corporate research labs may have the science. After all, the nutricosmetic antiaging boom started in the research labs of L’Oréal and Nestlé. Jay Tiesman, principal scientist/genomics group leader at Procter & Gamble, also was quoted in FastTalk magazine: “Our labs can measure not only what’s going on at the top of the skin, but also how it responds from the inside. We’re gauging its response to exterior damage as well as nutrition. What nutrition triggers a response on the skin’s surface? There’s still a lot of snake oil out there, but we actually have a much better understanding of beauty products, with much more soon to come.”⁹

Even the publishing industry may soon have the science. William Andrew claims its Nutritional Cosmetics will be the first book to review the scientific evidence showing the potential benefits of nutricosmetic ingredients. Publication is scheduled for 2009. Wherever the science is, you can count on Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine to find it and bring it to you.