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Nutricosmetics: Feeding the Skin
By: Bud Brewster, Cosmetics & Toiletries
Posted: January 30, 2009, from the February 2009 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.
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The effects of active ingredients in Fermeté in menopausal women have been studied. A clinical test on women aged 45 and over confirmed that after three months of daily consumption, Fermeté efficiently affected the metabolic processes involved in skin aging, modifying skin physiology, and providing antiaging benefits.3
Kiwi seed extract: In 2007, online sources5 reported that a company in New Zealand sought to make a nutricosmetic ingredient from the seeds of the kiwi fruit. Kiwifruit Extract Venture Ltd. was already supplying the cosmetics industry with kiwi oil, which contains omega-3 alpha-linolenic acid, and the fruit contains vitamins C, A and E, potassium and flavonoid antioxidants, but the company found that the seeds, which are typically not digested by humans, are a source of two antioxidant flavonoid glycosides: quercitrin (a precursor to quercetin) and kaempferol.
Initial research had centered around topical application of the seed extract, but the company discovered that both the kiwi oil and the seed extract can be taken orally in supplement form. Soon came preliminary evidence that 50 mg of the antioxidant extract taken in oral supplement form can have an improving effect on skin, notably in reducing fine lines and wrinkles, the company reported.
Separately, a 2006 Japanese study conducted on guinea pigs6 examined the effects of an aqueous ethanol extract prepared from defatted kiwi seed and its constituents quercitrin and kaempferol (KSE) 3-O-rhamunoside on acne and melanin formation. The authors concluded that the extract “inhibits the enzyme activities involved in acne and melanin formation, and oral administration of KSE is effective in eliminating skin pigmentation.”
Lychee extract: Laboratoires Sérobiologiques (LS) describes its lychee extractc as “a holistic active ingredient, multifunctional, fruity and attractive, bringing essential ‘well-being’ elements to the skin.” The ingredient is extracted from the pericarp of lychee (Litchi chinensis Sonn.), a fruit native to southern China and valued for thousands of years as an astringent, analgesic, stomachic and fortifier. Tea made from the pericarp of the fruit is said to cure skin rashes. LS discovered that extracts from the pericarp also strengthen the skin’s natural defense mechanisms in a number of ways.