Heating Up the Preservative Debate

By: Katie Schaefer, Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine

Posted: October 2, 2008, from the October 2008 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.

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Preserving Efficacy with UHT
Although some might question the effect of such a process, the company maintains that its process preserves both quality and efficacy. The company has produced Dermatherm, a line of products using its patented UHT sterilization process. To maintain the preservation of its sterilized personal care line, the company packages its products in an airless sterile tube. In addition, the process requires strict conditions of microbiological cleanliness in a sterile zone.

“The sterilization process requires specific processing equipment that can properly sterilize a variety of skin care products such as creams, lotions, gels and shampoos and destroy all bacteria, spores and germs,” commented Coureil. The UHT process, however, is proprietary to the company.

According to Coureil, ingredients in the formulations are not affected by this process. “Most active ingredients are not impacted when exposed to high temperatures,” said Coureil, who added that in some cases, formulas have to be optimized to withstand the sterilization process.

Certification with UHT
The company obtained BIO level certification for its line of skin care products from Cosmebio, a French association of natural cosmetic manufacturers. BIO level certification requires products to have a minimum of 95% natural ingredients. Coureil maintains that achieving this level is easier with the UHT process. Manufacturing products via UHTs allows companies to formulate without some frequently questioned ingredients including parabens, phenoxyethanol and other preservatives; fragrance; mineral oil; polyethylene glycol; lanolin; alcohol; silicone; and pigments.

A Solution for Sensitive Care
Beyond its benefit in formulating without preservatives, processing cosmetics using the UHT system might also benefit those with sensitive skin.