Cosmeceutical, Nutraceuticals and Biofunctional Textiles for a Better Quality of Life

Posted: January 25, 2008

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Increasing awareness of the damaging effects of sunlight has led to a significant demand for improved photoprotection by the use of sunscreening agents. Thus, over the past few decades, there has been a continuous improvement in sunscreen formulation, especially in the development of broad-spectrum coverage sunscreens.

In addition to the conventional organic-chemical and the physical-mineral type sunscreens, a number of non-sunscreen sun protective strategies also have been investigated. Dietary carotenoids including lutein are delivered to play a role in maintaining skin and eye health by reducing UV and blue light damages, according to Kyochi Oshida of Kemin Health. The hydroxyl groups present on the rings of lutein-molecule are responsible for the more hydrophilic characteristics of this natural compound, allowing it to react with singlet oxygen more efficiently. In addition, lutein also filters high-energy, blue-light from the visible-light spectrum. Blue light, in both indoor lighting and sunlight is believed to induce oxidative stress and possible free-radical damage in human tissues exposed to light, such as the eyes and skin. Moreover, an Italian double-blind clinical study has recently elucidated that oral and/or topical lutein supplementation plays a role in skin aging, maintaining and linking water at level of stratum corneum lipid lamellae (Fig.10). In addition, some clinical studies, presented by Veronique Fabien-Soulè and Pieree Albert Thomas of Rousselot Corporate, have shown that the oral intake of 5 to 10 g. per day of hydrolyzed collagen may have a positive effect on human skin, ameliorating the appearance of aged skin. Moreover, according to yet unpublished studies, the antiaging activity of lutein seems to be increased by the contemporary use of hydrolized collagen.

Caption: The Supported Location Where Lutein is Acting at Level of the Skin Lamellae.

Skin has extraordinary needs for antioxidants to cope with the oxidative stress constantly imposed by the environment and the aging process. Tocopherols and tocotrienols are the major radical scavenging antioxidants in cell membranes. Carotenoids protect cellular components from oxygen-mediated photo-oxidation by quenching singlet oxygen. Moreover, polyunsaturated fatty acids are important components of cell membranes for acquiring the proper membrane fluidity required for a wide range of biological activities in the cells.

In conclusion, carotenoids, tocopherols and bioactive lipids are essential components of a healthy diet for the skin. Tailor-made packages containing beneficial fatty acids, lipid soluble antioxidants (carotenoids) and vitamins, plant sterols and triterpenoids (tocotrienols) shall be included in the diet specifically designed for the internal care of the skin of different populations, according to the presentation by Barou Yang of the Dept of Biochemistry at the University of Turku.