Cosmeceutical, Nutraceuticals and Biofunctional Textiles for a Better Quality of Life

Posted: January 25, 2008

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The transfer to and up-take of melanosomes within the keratinocytes suggests a feedback control mechanism regulating from the same keratinocytes. And this keratinocyte-melanocyte metabolic activity interrelationship should be based on the efficacy of new whitening cosmetic compounds. This seems to be the future trend of treating hypermelanosis worldwide, according with different topics presented and discussed by scientists such as Hailang Zhang Xijing of the Medical University, Jie Gao of the Nanjing Medical University, Leihong Xiang of the Fudan University of Shanghay, and Xuejun Zhang of Anhui Medical University.

Herbal Medicine, used systematically and topically, acupuncture, moxibustion massage and diet seem to be the main treatment modalities in cosmetic dermatology. Thus, more and more customers and dermatologists have turned to TMC for preventive and curative treatments in cosmetology. After thousands years of trial and error practice on humans, Chinese physicians have identified hundreds of herbs and food products that have cosmetic benefits. The combination of herbal formulas, fang ji, is a unique Chinese approach to cosmetic conditions. An herbal formula is always tailored to an individual customer/patient for a specific condition. Therefore, the last contributions highlighted from the ancient and modern Chinese therapies were focused from Yonk Ming Li of the American Traditional Chinese Medicine Society, Junyr Huang of the Beijing University of Chinese Medicine and Song Ping of the China Academy of Chinese Medical Sciences. The application of some herbal medicines in high-tech cosmetics products were discussed by Nuan Chen of the Shiseido China Research Center. He focused on the activity of some herbal medicine, demonstrating the advantages such as whitening, moisturizing and nourishing agents when used in the field of cosmeceuticals.

Natural Chemistry is an Oxymoron or a Pleonasm?
This was the interesting topic presented by Karl Lintner, general manager of Sederma/Croda. It was a non-commercial talk on today’s absurd opposition between chemistry and natural. Karl strongly asserted that this opposition represents a “cry against the rape of our language, the measure of words and terminology, a wake-up call to stop bashing chemistry”. This way of thinking is a danger for innovation and science in general. Cosmetics should be formulated to be safe and effective, whatever the source of material.

Protection from Photoaging
Mens sana in corpore sano, or a healthy mind in a healthy body, is a way of living. But intrinsic aging caused by genes and extrinsic aging cause by environmental factors such as UV rays and blue light, normally begins in the mid-20s. And striving for beautiful, healthy facial skin is a common aspiration for all people of the world with standards of attractiveness that are surprisingly universal. Thus, the new personalized medicine has become using lifestyle and the environment as principle tools in both presentation and treatment of skin photoaging.

In an attempt to block some of the damage incurred by sun exposure, antioxidants have been explored as a means to deal with UVR-induced oxidative stress, UVA and blue light radiation in particular. Oxidative stress has a complex etiology with multiple risk factors that involve the interplay between genetic and environmental influences. There is compelling evidence that suggests that sunscreens and dietary plant foods are protective against degenerative diseases. Some topical and systemic antioxidants include resveratrol, vitamin E, vitamin C, retynyl phosphate and lutein. As a potent antioxidant, vitamin C acts as a scavenger of free radicals and reactive oxygen generated during normal metabolism. This nutrient plays a major role in the manufacture of connective tissues and serves as the primary ingredient of collagen. Another beneficial effect is the control of excessive skin pigmentation by the suppression of melanin formation, thereby promoting skin whitening. All these observations came out during the topics presented by Tetsuo Shu of Daikanyam Clinic, Evangeline B. Handog of the Research Institute for Tropical Medicine and other scientists participating to the general discussion such as Hunchen Wei, a professor of dermatology at the Mt. Sinai School of Medicine.