Diethanolamine Esterquats for Hair and Skin and Other Topics: Literature Findings

May 1, 2009 | Contact Author | By: Charles Fox, Independent Consultant
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Title: Diethanolamine Esterquats for Hair and Skin and Other Topics: Literature Findings
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Keywords: patents

Abstract: This month’s survey of recent patent and research literature describes moneymaking ideas for personal care product development including water-induced thickening of hair, surfactant/biopolymer mixures, a foam/aerosol hair conditioner, and yeast glucan carriers, among others.

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This month’s survey of recent patent and research literature describes moneymaking ideas for personal care product development including water-induced thickening of hair, surfactant/biopolymer mixures, a foam/aerosol hair conditioner, and yeast glucan carriers, among others.

Skin and Skin Care 
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate in skin lightening: Nakama et al. indicate that magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP) inhibits the transfer of melanin granules from melanocytes to keratinocytes.1 In skin lightening, this transfer is important to control and many studies have been conducted regarding the transfer mechanism of melanin granules; however, few studies have examined the mechanism of intercellular adhesion between melanocytes and keratinocytes. These researchers investigated the role of epithelial cadherin (E-cadherin), a cell adhesion factor, on the UV-induced acceleration of melanin transfer, revealing that nitric oxide, a skin melanogen induced by UV irradiation, accelerates the transfer of melanin granules from melanocytes to keratinocytes. Furthermore, nitric oxide was found to up-regulate the expression of E-cadherin mRNA in human melanocytes and kerati

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Footnote A

aArlatone V-100 (INCI: Steareth-100 (and) Steareth-2 (and) Glycerol Stearate Citrate (and) Sucrose (and) Mannan (and) Xanthan Gum) and Arlatone V-175 (INCI: Sucrose Palmitate (and) Glycerol Stearate  (and) Glycerol Stearate Citrate (and) Sucrose (and) Mannan (and) Xanthan Gum) are products of Croda Inc.

Formula 1. Shampoo Composition5

Laureth-5 carboxylic acid 1.80% w/w
Coco-glucoside (Plantacare-818, Cognis) 11.00
Cocamidopropyl betaine 2.60
Vinylformamide/vinylformamine copolymer (Lupamin-9030, BASF) 1.00
Preservatives qs
Fragrance (parfum) qs
pH-adjusting agents qs
Water (aqua) qs to 100.00

Formula 2. Shampoo with an esterquat6

Ceteareth (Hostacerin T-3, Clariant) 1.50% w/w
Ceteareth-3 (and) cetyl alcohol 3.00
Behentrimonium chloride (Genamin KDMP, Clariant) 2.50
Behentrimonium chloride diethanolamine esterquat 3.00
Fragrance (parfum) 0.30
Pigments qs
Preservative qs
Citric acid, 10% qs
Water (aqua) qs to 100.00

Formula 3. Aerosol hair conditioner7

Dimethicone 18.10% w/w
Sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine (Pellicer L 30, Asahi Kasei) 1.00
Polyquaternium-10 0.01
Alcohol 5.00
Behenyltrimethylammonium chloride 0.40
Methylparaben 0.10
Glycerin 5.00
Fragrance (parfum) 0.10
Water (aqua) qs to 100.00

Formula 4. Hair conditioner8

Dicocoylethyl hydroxyethyhlmonium methosulfate (and) propylene glycol (Dehyquart l80, Cognis) 30.00%w/w
Isostearyl lactate 30.00
Dipropylene glycol 30.00
Polyoxyethylene glycerin monoisostearate 1.00
Water (aqua) qs to 100.00

Formula 5. W/O makeup remover9

Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/ 1 dimethicone (Abil EM-90, Degussa) 1.00% w/w
Isoparaffin (IP Solvent 2028MU) 8.00
Dextrin palmitate/ ethylhexanoate (Rheopearl TT, Ciba) 1.00
Propylene glycol dicaprate (Myritol GTEH, Cognis) 1.00
Mineral oil 1.00
Butylene glycol 16.00
Methylparaben  0.15
Sodium chloride 0.30
Water (aqua) qs to 100.00

Formula 6. W/O skin cleanser10

Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/ 1 dimethicone (Abil EM-90, Degussa) 2.00% w/w
Cyclomethicone 10.00
Dimethicone 6.00
Dimethicone (and) dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer (KSG-16, Shin-Etsu) 5.00
Water (aqua) 60.90
Sodium chloride 1.00
1,3-Butylene glycol 10.00
Ethanol 5.00
Methylparaben 0.10
  100.00

Formula 7. Inorganic-organic sunscreen11

Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 7.50% w/w
Benzophenone-3 2.00
INCI not provided (Rylo PG 11, Danisco) 0.80
Sorbitan stearate 1.00
Vitamin E acetate 0.50
Glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate 3.00
PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 1.00
BASF Hybrid 3.00
Butyrospermum parkii (shea butter) (Cetiol SB45, Cognis) 1.00
C12-15 alkyl benzoate (Finsolv TN, Finetex) 6.50
Butylene glycol 5.00
Xanthan gum 0.30
Disodium EDTA 0.10
Allantoin 0.10
Polyacrylamide (and) C13-14 isoparaffiin (and) laureth-7 (Sepigel 305, Seppic) 1.00
Water (aqua) qs to 100.00

Formula 8. Sunscreen with new preservatives12

Potassium cetyl phosphate (and) hydrogenated palm glycerides (Emulsiphos 2/918520, Symrise) 1.00% w/w
Alpha-bisabolol 0.10
Cetearyl alcohol 1.50
Myristyl alcohol 1.00
Cetearyl ethylhexanoate 4.00
Stearyl heptanoate (and) stearyl caprylate 1.00
Cyclopentasiloxane (and) cyclohexasiloxane 0.50
Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 1.50
4-methylbenzylidene camphor  1.50
Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 8.00
VP/hexadecene copolymer 1.00
Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer 0.10
Pentylene glycol 2.00
Capryl glycol 0.50
Sodium hydroxide 0.50
Fragrance (parfum) 0.20
4-methylbenzyl alcohol 0.50
Water (aqua) qs to 100.00

Formula 9. Lip balm13

Diethylhexyl syringlidenemalonate (and) caprylic/capric triglyceride 5.00% w/w
Ethylene/propylene copolymer 4.00
Polyethylene 3.00
Triethylhexanoin 20.00
Petrolatum 30.00
C14-15 dialkyl dicarbonate 10.00
Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 5.00
Polybutene 5.00
Cetyl hexanoate 18.00
  100.00

Formula 10. Moisturizing cream18

Arachidyl alcohol (and) behenyl alcohol (and) arachidyl glusoside (Montanov 202, Seppic) 5.00% w/w
Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate (Lanol 1688, Seppic) 20.00
Ethylheyl Glycerin (Sensiva SC 50, schülke) 1.00
Polyacrylate-13 (and) polyisobutene (and) polysorbate 20 (Sepiplus 400, Seppic) 0.20
Water (aqua) 64.30
Glycerol 9.40
Benzyl alcohol (and) methylchloroisothiazolinone (and) methylisothiazolinone (Euxyl K 100, schülke) 0.10
  100.00

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