Instant/Gradual Self Tanning and Other Topics: Literature Findings

Feb 1, 2010 | Contact Author | By: Charles Fox, Independent Consultant
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Title: Instant/Gradual Self Tanning and Other Topics: Literature Findings
patentsx feelx whiteningx dermal fillersx polymerx hair relaxingx stylingx fatty acidsx encapsulated colorx
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Keywords: patents | feel | whitening | dermal fillers | polymer | hair relaxing | styling | fatty acids | encapsulated color

Abstract: This survey of patent and research literature describes money-making ideas for personal care product development, including whitening with vitamin C and Opuntia ficus indica, a pulverulent for hair shaping and shine, an amino functional silicone treatment to use post-relaxing, and instant/gradual self tanning, among others.

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C Fox, Technically speaking—Instant/Gradual self tanning and other topics: Literature findings, Cosm & Toil 125(2) 26-33 (Feb 2010)

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This survey of patent and research literature describes money-making ideas for personal care product development, including whitening with vitamin C and Opuntia ficus indica, a pulverulent for hair shaping and shine, an amino functional silicone treatment to use post-relaxing, and instant/gradual self tanning, among others.

Skin and Skin Care

Exudates removal and improved feel: Kimberly-Clark Worldwide Inc. has disclosed a formulation that may be applied to skin and/or used in combination with a personal care product to improve absorbance and leakage control of the personal care product, and to promote a more positive feel and comfort through improved skin cleanliness and health. A gel containing dimethicone was used to enhance removal of an exudate, i.e. menses, from the skin.

Promoting ascorbic acid in skin lighteners: Rohto Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd., has developed brown algae extracts to promote the uptake of ascorbic acid and skin lightening compositions containing the brown algae extracts and ascorbic acids. Specifically, the lightening composition disclosed contained Laminaria ochroleuca (laminaine marine) extract and ascorbic acid and its derivatives and salts. L. ochroleuca was found to promote the expression of the sodium-dependent vitamin C transporter- 1 gene (SVCT-1) in normal human epidermal keratinocytes. When added to a three-dimensional cultured human skin model, the brown algae significantly inhibited the production of melanin in the presence of ascorbic acid.

Vitamin C, Opuntia ficus-indica for whitening: The Face Shop Korea Co., Ltd., has disclosed a composition for removing the horny layer and lightening the skin that contains Opuntia ficus-indica flower extract and vitamin C stabilized by cationic and anionic substances. Combining vitamin C with cationic and anionic substances reportedly stabilized the vitamin C to protect it from oxidation caused by air, heat and water, thus maximizing its whitening effects. The Opuntia ficus-indica flower extract was found to promote the activities of chymotrypsin and trypsin related to desmosome decomposition, thereby promoting the turnover of skin keratin. Thus, the horny layer was removed without irritation, and the dark skin was whitened.

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Footnotes

a Juvéderm Plus is an injectable gel manufactured by Allergan, Irvine, Calif., USA.
b Juvéderm Ultra Plus is an injectable gel manufactured by Allergan, Irvine, Calif., USA.
c Flamenco Red 420C (INCI: Mica (and) Titanium Dioxide) is a product of BASF Corp.

Biography: Charles Fox, Independent Consultant

Charles Fox

The belated Charles Fox was an independent consultant to the cosmetics and personal care industry. Formerly the director of product development for the personal products division of Warner-Lambert Company, he was also a past recipient of the Cosmetic Industry Buyers and Suppliers Award and the Society of Cosmetic Chemists Medal Award. He also served as president of the SCC.

Formula 1. Cream-in-powder composition3

Titanium dioxide (and) perfluoroalkyl phosphates (PW Covaflour, LCW–Sensient) 28.00% w/w
Talc perfluoroalkyl phosphate (PFS Talc JA 45-R, Kobo) 8.50
 Mica (Submica M, LCW-Sensient)  8.50
Octylacrylamide/acrylates butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (Amphomer, National Starch) 1.00
Methyl methacrylate crosspolymer (Covabead LH 170, LCW–Sensient) 3.50
Hydrogenated polyisobutene (Squatol S, LCW–Sensient)  50.50
  100.00

Formula 2. Hair conditioner5

Stearyl alcohol (Ginol 18, Godrej Industries) 4.00% w/w
Behentrimonium chloride (Genamin KDMP, Clariant) 2.00
Paraffin wax 1.00
Disodium EDTA 0.10
Amodimethicone (and) C12-14 sec-pareth-7 (and) C12-14 sec pareth-5 (DC2-8177, Dow Corning) 1.00
INCI: not provided (DC2-7121, Dow Corning) 5.00
DMDM hydantoin (Glydant, Lonza) 0.20
Fragrance (parfum) 0.60
Water (aqua) qs to 100.00

Formula 3. Hair styling composition6

Candelilla wax 2.00% w/w
Microcrystalline wax 12.00
Mineral oil 3.50
Hydrogenated polyisobutene 3.50
Pentaerythritol tetra-2-ethylhexanoate 3.00
Polyoxyethylene glyceryl isostearate 1.00
Glycerin stearate 1.00
Behenyl alcohol 3.30
Stearyl alcohol 0.90
Tocopherol 0.50
Fragrance (parfum) 0.10
Propylene glycol 8.00
Sodium N-stearoyl-N-methyltaurine 1.20
Silica 2.50
Triethanolamine 0.40
Polyvinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymer 1.80
Water (aqua) qs to 100.00

Formula 4. Hair conditioning shampoo7

Ammonium laureth sulfate 13.00% w/w
Polyquaternium 52 0.40
C14-28 alkyl acid (and) C14-28 isolkyl acid (Crodacid 18 MEA, Croda) 0.10
Lauramidopropylbetaine 3.50
Cocomonoethanolamide 0.50
Polyoxyethylene lauryl ether 1.00
Water (aqua) qs to 100.00

Formula 5. Hair styling cream8

Vinylformamide/vinylformamine copolymer (Lupamin 9030, BASF) 6.00% w/w
VP/acrylates/lauryl methacrylate copolymer (Acrylidone LM, ISP) 2.00
Water (aqua) qs to 100.00

Formula 6. Hair dye9

Oleyl alcohol 4.00% w/w
Polyglyceryl-2 oleyl ether (Chimexane NB, Chimex) 8.00
Polyglycerolated oleyl alcohol 5.00
Lauryl diethylaminopropyl aminosuccinamate 2.00
Oleic acid 5.00
INCI: not provided (Amidel A15, Union Carbide) 12.00
PEG-2 oleamine (Rhodameen O2 V, Rhodia) 5.00
Ethanol 9.00
Propylene glycol 10.00
4,5-Diamino-1-(2-hydroxyethyl)-1H-pyrazole, H2SO4 1.15
2,4-Diaminophenoxyethanol.2HCl 0.53
Ammonia, 20% 10.00
Antioxidants qs
Fragrance (parfum) qs
Sequestrants qs
Water (aqua) qs to 100.00

Formula 7. Lipstick12

Hydrogenated jojoba oil 2.40% w/w
Isostearyl isostearate 7.00
Tridecyl trimellitate 9.10
Hydrogenated polyisobutene 14.10
bis-Diglycerylpolyacryladipate-2 20.10
Phenyltrimethicone 11.10
Vinyldimethicone-methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer 2.00
Dimethicone (and) dimethicone crosspolymer (DC 9041, Dow Corning) 16.20
Disteardimonium hectorite 0.20
Kaolin 1.00
Nylon-12 1.00
Perlite 0.50
Iron oxide 0.96
Yellow 6 lake 2.40
Red 7  0.64
Red 28 lake  2.00
Polyethylene 1.10
Ozokerite 8.20
  100.00

Formula 8. O/W emulsion15

Dimethicone 25.00% w/w
Polyoxyethylene cetyl stearyl diether 5.00
Aminopropyl dimethicone 2.00
Water (aqua) qs to 100.00

Formula 9. Moisturizing liner18

Polyglyceryl-4 Isotearate (and) cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone (and) hexyllaurate (Abil WE 09, Evonik Goldschmidt) 4.00% w/w
Cyclomethicone 46.00
Cetyl dimethicone (Abil Wax 9801, Evonik Goldschmidt) 47.00
Quaterium-80 (Abil Quat 3474, Evonik Goldschmidt) 1.00
Dimethicone (350 cst) 2.00
  100.00

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