Patent Picks—Pigment Dispersion, Thickening Mascara, Volume Lips and More in Color

Jan 21, 2014 | Contact Author | By: Cosmetics & Toiletries editors
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Title: Patent Picks—Pigment Dispersion, Thickening Mascara, Volume Lips and More in Color
gelling systemx thickening effects in mascarax foundationx lipstickx lustrous silver pigmentx keratin color patternx
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Patent Picks are compiled by Cosmetics & Toiletries editors. They are taken from publicly available sources and cover recent patents issued, or applied for, in the cosmetic and personal care industries and relevant peripheral markets. This edition features inventions related to color cosmetics and hair dye.

Transparent oil-gelling system for lip gloss
U.S. Patent 8633171
Publication date: Jan. 21, 2014
Assignee: ELC Management LLC

According to these inventors, it is difficult to achieve high levels of transparent gloss in lip gloss without making it too fluid or oily. The problem lies in the difficulty of gelling cosmetic oils that constitute the backbone of most lip products. The most commonly used oils are polar, making achieving the desired level of viscosity and clarity a complex matter. Although it is possible to gel these oils, the usual viscosifying agents used are waxes and/or clays, making the end product typically too opaque, less viscous and more oily-feeling than desired. Thus, there is a need for a soft liquid gel-type product that does not convey an oily feeling on lips, yet provides a significant level of transparency to improve gloss and shine. The present invention provides a solution to this need. The disclosed invention relates to a gellant system for a polar oil comprising gellant-effective amounts of silica, a sugar fatty acid ester and a long chain polymer.

Improving mascara thickening, separation effects
U.S. Patent 8631806
Publication date: Jan. 21, 2014
Assignee: The Procter & Gamble Co.

Addressed by this patent are certain mascaras, which while typically depositing a coating on lashes 5-15 microns thick, are viewed as messy and tend to clump too many lashes together, giving the look of fewer lashes. These inventors have found a system that combines a large particle-containing mascara with a molded applicator designed in such a way to allow the transfer of large particles and compositions in addition to sufficient lash-combing. A disclosed composition includes a wax primary particle composed of one or more waxes. Such a combination is said to thicken the diameter of lashes while keeping them separated, leaving the appearance of thick, well-separated lashes.

Oil-based preparations for improved pigment dispersion and durability
European Patent Application EP2684559
Publication date: Jan. 15, 2014
Assignee: Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.

The present invention relates to oil-based makeup preparations that spread smoothly when applied and have excellent feel during use in addition to good pigment dispersibility and wearability. According to the inventors, this solves the problem of poor pigment dispersion and durability in former makeup preparations. The cosmetic preparation comprises: a) 1.0% to 75% by mass of a partially cross-linked polyether-modified silicone or a partially cross-linked polyglycerin-modified silicone, or a combination thereof; b) 3% to 75% by mass of a low viscosity silicone oil with a viscosity of 1 to 100 mm2/s; c) 0.1% to 18% by mass of a cross-linked silicone powder; and d) 0.1% to 5% by mass of amorphous anhydrous silicic acid with an average particle size of 0.001 to 0.1 µm.

Improving the natural color and manufacturing of base makeup
European Patent Application EP2684557
Publication date: Jan. 15, 2014
Assignee: Fujifilm Corp.

Described in this patent is the challenge for conventional base makeup to makes the skin appear yellowish (referred to as yellow dulling), depending on the light source. Further, with respect to conventional makeup, the feel during use, i.e., pick-up, softness, moisture levels and smoothness, is still unsatisfactory. Also, when a wet-molding method is used to mold a base makeup cosmetic, the pigment included as the colorant dissolves into the solvent, bleeding out and causing uneven coloring. The present invention addresses these issues, outlining a method including: a) mixing a solvent and a cosmetic base material including a red composite powder having a composite structure in which red pigment, selected from the group consisting of lithol rubine B and lithol rubine BCA, is intercalated into an inorganic substance; and b) filling the slurry into a container then removing the solvent, as well as the base makeup cosmetic.

Formulating natural-looking, volumized lips
U.S. Patent 8628758
Publication date: Jan. 14, 2014
Assignee: L'Oréal

This invention relates to a process for making up the lips that imparts novel effects by placing in contact, in an aqueous medium, e.g., saliva on the surface of the lips, at least one water-soluble organic acid and an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal carbonate or bicarbonate. According to these inventors, the main expectation of lipstick users is to modify the visual appearance of lips, generally in terms of coloration, gloss and volume. To obtain a volumizing, fleshy effect, two alternatives are currently available. The first involves cosmetic surgery; the second is via the presence, in the film of makeup applied to the lips, of one or more materials capable of giving an optical effect. For obvious reasons, such a volumizing effect is entirely artificial and is perceived as such but the current trend is for products that are natural-looking, resembling natural flesh tone and/or volume. The present invention therefore addresses both needs.

Solid, high-moisturizing cosmetic materials
U.S. Patent Application 20140010775
Publication date: Jan. 9, 2014
Assignee: Shiseido Co., Ltd.

According to this patent, while liquid products having moisturizing properties such as w/o emulsions have been developed, solid cosmetics that are molded are in high demand due to the ease of fixing the makeup. However, it is still highly desirable to provide superior moisturization as well as storage stability. The present invention therefore meets the needs for high moisturization, and stability in a humidified environment while also allowing the moisturizing effect to be sensed by the user. The solid makeup material invented comprises 33% by mass or more of an oil component, and 3% to 15% by mass of a moisturizing agent.

Highly lustrous nonmetallic silver pigments
U.S. Patent Application 20140010772
Publication date: Jan. 9, 2014
Assignee: Eckart GMBH

These inventors discuss how metallic effect pigments, particularly aluminum, determine the silver hue seen in many of today's appliances, vehicles, etc. Regulators, however, limit their use. Also, electromagnetic shielding, such as for cellular phones, employs metallic effect pigments dispensed within varnish. If the metallic effect and visual impression of an aluminum effect pigment are to be preserved, a simple substitution by a silver-colored pearlescent pigment is not possible. There is thus a need for pigments that provide optical properties including: silver hue, opacity, metallic gloss, light/dark flop, etc., that come close to metallic effect pigments yet contain no metal and can thus contribute to the field of use of metallic effect pigments.

This invention is based on the provision of silver-colored pigment comprising a nonmetallic platelet-shaped synthetic substrate, and at least one ilmenite-containing coating, wherein the nonmetallic substrate and the amount of iron compounds, calculated as elemental iron, in the pigment is less than 5.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the pigment. Processes for preparing the pigment also are provided.

Colored pattern for dyeing keratin fibers
WIPO Patent Application WO/2014/001390
Publication date: Jan. 3, 2014
Assignee: L'Oréal

According to this patent, when dyeing hair, it is possible to produce patterns by using dye precursors for permanent dyeing or, alternatively, using direct dyes or pigments for non-permanent dyeing. The first technique, although efficient, involves a time-consuming color development process and a rinsing step. In addition, the color-fast nature of the dyed pattern cannot be frequently and quickly changed. In contrast, producing patterns on hair via non-permanent dyeing makes it possible to obtain temporary patterns but the result has a weak resistance to external agents such as water, touching or hair styling tools.

The aim of the present invention was to develop a process for dyeing keratin fibers that makes it possible to produce colored patterns that are temporary, while at the same time being resistant to external agents such as water, touching or hair styling tools. The process involves applying, via a stencil to part of the keratin fibers, a composition comprising at least one hydrophobic film-forming polymer, at least one volatile solvent and at least one pigment, so as to form, after drying, a colored pattern on the said fibers.