Patent Picks—Bio-nano-powered Effects, Star Macromolecules, Polyurea Capsule Delivery and More In Sensory

Patent Picks are compiled by Cosmetics & Toiletries editors. They are taken from publicly available sources and cover recent patents issued, or applied for, in the cosmetic and personal care industries and relevant peripheral markets. This edition features inventions related to sensory effects in skin and hair.

Improving sensory characteristics in water- and oil-repellent compositions
U.S. Patent 8609795
Publication date: Dec. 17, 2013
Assignee: Asahi Glass Company, Ltd.

According to this patent, in conventional water and oil repellents, it has been considered essential to use a crystallizable Rf group-containing monomer that has an Rf group capable of forming fine crystals having a higher melting point (usually at least 70°C). The development of such water and oil repellency is attributed to formation of “a low energy surface,” having a low critical surface tension on the surface of a coating film by surface orientation of Rf groups. For example, some cosmetic compositions containing the following are known: a fluorine compound and a wax having a specific melting point; a tetrapolymer comprising an Rf group-containing (meth)acrylate, stearyl (meth)acrylate and two other types of monomers as essential components; a mixture of a fluorine type water and oil repellent with an alcohol containing an Rf group having a specific chain length or a perfluoropolyether group-containing alcohol; and a reaction product of an amino group-containing silicone and an Rf group-containing ester compound.

However, if a crystallizable Rf group-containing monomer is used, the entire polymer will have high crystallinity attributable thereto, and accordingly, an object coated or treated with such a polymer becomes very hard. Further, according to these inventors, the water and oil repellency achieved is often high initially but tends to deteriorate by abrasion during the use or by repeated washings. The present inventors have therefore developed a water and oil repellent composition having excellent durability that can impart excellent water and oil repellency to an object, even in a process at low temperatures, and that enables water- and oil-repellent treatment providing a soft hand.

Nitrogen-free radical containing polysiloxane compositions for hair conditioning
U.S. Patent 8609077
Publication date: Dec. 17, 2013
Assignee: BASF SE

Disclosed in this patent are compositions containing polyorganosiloxanes having at least one quaternary group comprising at least one nitrogen atom, and at least one further polar radical, and their use in cosmetics, particularly for the conditioning of hair. Aminofunctional polyorganosiloxanes are known to be used in personal care applications; also, polysiloxanes with quaternary nitrogen atoms are recognized in the literature for treating fabrics and hair. However, mention of polysiloxanes in which a polyoxyalkylene group is present in a nitrogen-free radical, such as is disclosed here, has not previously been published. This invention is well-suited for use in personal care applications, such as the treatment of hair, and comprises a flowable, non-cross-linked polysiloxane having the following structural units: —Si(CH3)2—O—; —Si(CH)(Z)—O—; and —Si(CH3)(X)—O—, among others.

Polysiloxanes with betaine groups for viscosity stability in skin cleansing, hair conditioning
U.S. Patent Application 20130331592
Publication date: 12/12/2013
Assignee: Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH

This invention relates to polysiloxanes that contain at least one betaine group and their use particularly for care, cleansing and conditioning in skin and hair. An object of the invention was to provide an ingredient to bring about good conditioning with only a slight effect on the viscosity of a wide variety of formulations. One advantage of these betaine polysiloxanes is their generally good compatibility with anionic components, in particular with anionic surfactants. Others are their high substantivity, and excellent conditioning effects on skin, hair and textiles.

Bio-nano power cells for effects, delivery and more
U.S. Patent Application 20130330293
Publication date: Dec. 12, 2013
Assignee: Bio-Nano Power

Disclosed in this patent are bio-nano power cells (BNPC) and methods of their manufacture and use. Said cells that are biocompatible and capable of producing flash, intermittent or continuous power by electrolyzing compounds in biological systems. These BNPC aggregates may be used in many markets, including: coatings and surface modifiers, such as to provide scratch resistance, an antimicrobial surface, color change, texture modification and water resistance; cleansers; and lotions, cosmetics, pigments and dyes, UV absorbers, carriers of nutritionals, surfactants, delivery and functional additives and more.

Polyurea capsules for actives, fragrance and other benefit agents delivery
U.S. Patent Application 20130330292
Publication date: Dec. 12, 2013
Assignee: International Flavors & Fragrances Inc.

These inventors have developed polyurea capsules that encapsulate active materials in polymeric walls via the polymerization of an aromatic or aliphatic polyisocyanate and a cross-linking agent. Polyurea or polyurethane microcapsules have reportedly not previously been applied for the release of benefit agents intended for laundry, washing, cleaning, surface care and personal and skin care. The described preparation method involves: preparing an oil phase comprising an active material and a polyisocyanate; preparing a surfactant solution; emulsifying the oil phase into the surfactant solution to form a fragrance emulsion; adding a cross-linking agent to the fragrance emulsion to form a capsule slurry; and curing the capsule slurry. In one embodiment, the active material is a fragrance oil. A polyurea capsule composition, optionally containing a deposition aid, and consumer products containing said polyurea capsule are also provided.

Perspiration and odor control compositions
U.S. Patent Application 20130330290
Publication date: Dec. 12, 2013
Assignee: L'Oréal Paris

The present disclosure is directed to a composition for controlling perspiration and odor. Despite being free of volatile silicones, which have garnered a bad reputation due to their ecotoxicity and bioaccumulability in aquatic species, the composition of the present disclosure reportedly replicates the textural and sensorial benefits provided by the use of volatile silicones like cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclopentasiloxane and cyclohexasiloxane. An antiperspirant and/or deodorant composition is described comprising: 15% to 25% w/w of low-volatility silicone; 5% to 10% w/w of modified starch; 1% to 3% w/w of polyamide powder; and an antiperspirant, with the proviso that the composition does not contain highly-volatile cyclic or linear silicones, and wherein the composition is a liquid, paste, cream, or solid bar.

Rheology-modifying star macromolecules
U.S. Patent 8604132
Publication date: Dec. 10, 2013
Assignee: ATRP Solutions, Inc.

According to these inventors, thickeners should be compatible with many other auxiliaries, particularly salts and surfactants. It should also show stable rheology and an unchanging physical and chemical quality even in the event of long-term storage and changes in pH and temperature. Thus, the described polymer composition was developed comprising star macromolecules. Each star macromolecule has a core and five or more arms, wherein the number of arms within a star macromolecule varies. The arms on a star are covalently attached to the core of the star, each comprises one or more (co)polymer segments, and at least one arm and/or segment exhibits a different solubility from at least one other arm or one other segment in a reference liquid of interest.

Spreadable, durable cosmetic powders
U.S. Patent 8603504
Publication date: Dec. 10, 2013
Assignee: Ajinomoto Co., Inc.

As a method of preventing makeup from deterioration, it has been proposed to perform a surface treatment on various cosmetic particles using a fluorine compound so as to impart water repellency and oil repellency. However, the obtained cosmetic powders are defective in that their spreadability on skin upon application is generally degraded, and the lightness and moisture of the skin is strikingly lost after application, as compared with a cosmetic powder free of the treatment with fluorine. Also proposed have been methods of compounding an N-mono long chain acyl basic amino acid as a cosmetic powder, and improving texture or imparting a hydrophobic property on a hydrophilic surface with the use of an N-mono long chain acyl basic amino acid as a surface treatment agent. Although the N-mono long chain acyl basic amino acid is reportedly superior in spreadability on the skin upon application, due to poor oil repellency, the lightness and moisture of the skin decreases after application.

Therefore, disclosed are cosmetic compositions that contain an N-mono long chain acyl basic amino acid and a particular α-aminolactam derivative, which show superior spreadability and affinity to the skin upon application, and improved lightness and moisture of the skin after application, as well as safety.

More in Literature/Data