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Patent Pick: Taking Matte to the Max in Color Cosmetics

February 6, 2018 | Contact Author | By: Rachel Grabenhofer
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TeenMatteLipstick850

Keywords: L'Oreal patent | matte makeup | matte lips | transfer resistance | comfortable wear | elastomer | silicone oil

Abstract: Today's trend for a matte finish yet transfer-resistance and comfortable wear makes for a challenging formula combination. L'Oréal inventors appear to have unlocked the code; a new patent application explains.

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Color cosmetics today must demonstrate properties of long wear, transfer resistance and comfort to the user. Oftentimes, however, combining these properties poses challenges.

For example, as a new L'Oréal new patent application explains, traditionally used ingredients that impart long wear, such as silicone resins, can also be drying, feel uncomfortable and flake during use. So, to overcome these problems, oils including silicone oil are generally employed. A drawback to oils, however, is they tend to add shine and a tacky feeling—these properties are not always desired, especially considering the latest trend for matte finishes.

As such, L'Oréal inventors sought to develop a makeup composition that delivers transfer resistance and long wear properties, along with superior comfort, a non-tacky feel and non-glossy (matte) appearance. An elastomer/silicone oil fluid combination appears to have hit the mark. 

Long-wearing, transfer-resistant, reduced tack cosmetic composition
WIPO Patent Application WO/2018/022614 
Publication date: Feb. 1, 2018
Assignees: L'Oréal, R. Rosario-Melendez, R. Jaky El-Khouri, G. Perruna, A.M. Rohmeyer and S.A. Desteno

According to this patent application, it has surprisingly been discovered that the combination of silicone crosspolymer (elastomer) and silicone oil (fluid) having viscosity greater than 100 cSt at specific ratios, in addition to silicone resins, polyorganosiloxane copolymer and volatile solvent, provides compositions characterized by a non-tacky feel and superior comfort. They also demonstrate transfer-resistance, long wear, minimal flaking and a matte appearance.

More specifically, the composition comprises said silicone elastomer and non-volatile oil at a ratio from about 1.0:0.2 to 1.0:10.0, at least one silicone resin, at least one volatile solvent and at least one polyorganosiloxane copolymer. The composition may optionally also contain wax, fillers and/or pigments. This invention also relates to a method for making up and enhancing the appearance of a keratinous substrate, particularly the lips.

Patent application accessed on Feb. 6, 2018.