Heated Sunless Tanning for Rapid Color and Other Topics: Literature Findings

By: Charles Fox, Independent Consultant

Posted: May 27, 2010, from the June 2010 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.

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Sun Care
Stable, long-lasting sunscreen: Kosei Co., Ltd. disclosed a w/o sunscreen composition that is stable and long-lasting, provides a good afterfeel to the skin, and blocks UV radiation.¹¹ The composition is comprised of: a partially cross-linked polyether-modified organopolysiloxane; organotitanate-treated zinc oxide fine particles and/or organotitanate-treated titanium oxide particles; a silicone oil; glyceryl trioctanoate, glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate) and/or neopentyl glycol dioctanoate; and inulin fatty acid ester and/or inulin hydrolyzate fatty acid ester. An example is shown in Formula 5.

Color Cosmetics
Cationic copolymer for added radiance: Unilever PLC formulated a composition containing a cationic copolymer with a monomer unit of acryloylethyl tri(C1-C3 alkyl)ammonium salt in a cosmetically acceptable carrier with a starch to impart radiance with soft focus effects on the skin.¹² Acrylamide/acryloylethyltrimethylammonium chloride/tris(hydroxymethyl)acrylamidomethane copolymer was the preferred cationic copolymer. In addition, a cross-linked cationic copolymer was used to significantly enhance the tanning effect, and no streaking was observed.

Pentaerythritol ester for gloss: Shiseido Co., Ltd. disclosed cosmetic compositions containing pentaerythritol mono(2-ethylhexanoate) tribenzoate and a carrier.¹³ The compositions apply smoothly and provide a glossy look. An example of a lipstick is shown in Formula 6.

Quick-drying nail polish: Mandom Corp. has utilized styrene copolymers, fatty acid esters, alkanediols and lower alcohols to create a nail polish that dries quickly and forms a long-lasting glossy film on the nails with good pigment dispersibility.¹⁴ The composition contains a styrene copolymer, a fatty acid ester nonionic surfactant, a C5-10 1,2-alkanediol, a lower alcohol and water. The composition may further contain a viscous mineral oil and/or a water-soluble polysaccharide. An example of a nail polish composition is shown in Formula 7.

Antimicrobials
Antibacterial peptides: Spiderbiotech S.r.l published a patent on monomeric and multimeric peptidic compounds that have antimicrobial activity, particularly against Gram positive and Gram negative bacteria.¹⁵ The compositions can be used for medical purposes, as disinfectants, in detergents or as preservatives. Methylbutyrate (1.9%), prenyl acetate (1.4%), 2-methylbutyl 2-methylbutyrate (1.2%) and 2-methylbutyl acetate (1.2%), were studied for their antimicrobial effects. Specifically, a Roman chamomile sample showed high antimicrobial activity against all strains of tested microbes.