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Heated Sunless Tanning for Rapid Color and Other Topics: Literature Findings

Formulas

  • Formula 1. Skin lightening cream1

    Formula 1. Skin lightening cream1

    Glyceryl stearate citrate 3.00% w/w
    Cetyl alcohol 2.00
    Glyceryl stearate 1.00
    Cyclomethicone 3.00
    Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789, DSM) 2.00
    Octocrylene 5.00
    Ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate 2.00
    Beeswax 1.00
    Dimethicone 1.00
    C12-15 alkyl benzoate 3.00
    Carbomer 0.20
    Sodium ascorbyl phosphate 0.20 3-(4-hydroxy-3-methoxyphenyl)-1-(4-hydroxyphenyl)-propane-1-one 0.50
    Glycerin 8.00
    EDTA 0.20
    Fragrance (parfum) 0.30
    Sodium hydroxide qs
    Water (aqua) qs to 100.00
  • Formula 2. Self-emulsifying bath composition5

    Formula 2. Self-emulsifying bath composition5

    Glycerin 0.50% w/w
    Polyoxyethylene(6) sorbitol monooleate (HLB 10) 4.00
    Polyoxyethylene(30) sorbitol tetraoleate (HLB 10.5) 3.50
    Polyoxyethylene(40) sorbitol tetraoleate (HLB 11.8) 1.00
    Polyoxyethylene(20) sorbitol monooleate (HLB 15) 2.00
    Water (aqua) 1.50
    Isopropyl myristate 5.00
    Fragrance (parfum) 0.90
    Methylparaben 0.20
    Propylparaben 0.10
    Mineral oil qs to 100.00
  • Formula 3. Conditioning shampoo9

    Formula 3. Conditioning shampoo9

    Lauric acid 8.00% w/w
    Myristic acid 2.50
    Palmitic acid 1.50
    Stearic acid 0.20
    Potassium hydroxide 3.40
    Lauryldimethylaminoacetic acid betaine 2.00
    Glycerin 1.00
    Hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose 0.30
    Coco diethanolamide 2.00
    Sodium chloride 0.80
    Water (aqua) qs to 100.00
  • Formula 4. Hair treatment emulsion10

    Formula 4. Hair treatment emulsion10

    Cetostearyl alcohol 9.00% w/w
    Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride 3.00
    Sorbeth-60 tetraoleate (Nikkol GO-460V, Nikkol) 1.50
    Steareth-2 (Nikkol BS-2, Nikkol) 3.50
    Amino-modified silicone (XF42-CO345, Momentive) 3.00
    Lactic acid 0.40
    Water (aqua) qs to 100.00
  • Formula 5. W/O sunscreen emulsion11

    Formula 5. W/O sunscreen emulsion11

    Dimethicone copolyol crosspolymer (and) dimethicone (Silicone KSG21, Shin-Etsu) 10.00% w/w
    Isopropyltriisostearoyltitanate-treated zinc oxide 10.00
    Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane 15.00
    Dimethylpolysiloxane 11.00
    Glyceryl trioctanoate 15.00
    Isononyl isononanate 5.00
    2-Ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate 5.00
    Inulin fatty acid ester (Rheopearl ISK, Chiba) 0.30
    PEG-10 dimethicone (Silicone KF-6017, Shin-Etsu) 1.50
    Fragrance (parfum) qs
    Dipropylene glycol 8.00
    Sodium chloride 1.00
    Methylparaben 0.30
    Water (aqua) qs to 100.00
  • Formula 6. Glossy lipstick13

    Formula 6. Glossy lipstick13

    Pentaerythritol mono (2-ethylhexanoate) tribenzoate 35.00% w/w
    Squalane 5.00
    Methylphenylpolysiloxane 5, diisostearyl maleate 10.00
    Glyceryl diisostearate 10.00
    Glyceryl tri (2-ethylhexanoate) 10.00
    Trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane 10.00
    Ceresin wax 11.00
    Microcrystalline wax 2.00
    Silicone-coated red pigments 4.00
    Fragrance (parfum) qs
    Red iron oxide-coated titanium mica 3.00
      100.00
  • Formula 7. Nail polish composition14

    Formula 7. Nail polish composition14

    Alkyl acrylate-styrene copolymer emulsion (Yodo Sol GH 35, National Starch) 70.00% w/w
    Glyceryl stearate 2.00
    1,2-octanediol 0.30
    Vat Red 1 (CI 73360) 2.00
    Titanium mica 5.00
    Bengala-coated titanium mica 2.00
    Xanthan gum 0.30
    Hectorite 1.00
    Ethanol 7.00
    Dimethicone 0.05
    Water (aqua) qs to 100.00
  • Formula 8. Transparent gel lotion17

    Formula 8. Transparent gel lotion17

    Carboxyvinylpolymer 0.92% w/w
    Potassium hydroxide 0.69
    Urea 3.00
    Lactic acid 0.25
    Sodium lactate 0.17
    Aloe extract 3.00
    Ethanol 15.00
    Polyethylene glycol 3.00
    Polyoxyethylene sorbitan monolaurate (Polysorbate-20) 0.70
    PEG-2 hydrogenated castor oil 0.30
    Water (aqua) qs to 100.00
By: Charles Fox, Independent Consultant
Posted: May 27, 2010, from the June 2010 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.

This month’s survey of recent patent and research literature describes money-making ideas for personal care product development, including whitening and skin wrinkle-fighting women’s underwear, heated sunless tanners for rapid color development and collagen stimulation via beta-thujaplicin, among others.

Skin and Skin Care
Skin lightening preparation:
Beiersdorf AG used 3-(4-hydroxy-3- methoxyphenyl)-1-(4-hydroxyphenyl)-propane-1-one to address hyper- pigmentation in cosmetic and dermatological preparations.1 An example of a skin lightening cream is shown in Formula 1.

Heated sunless tanner for rapid color: Unilever PLC disclosed a sunless tanning product that imparts faster color to skin when dispensed through a heating device.2 At RT, a body lotion containing 1.50% dihydroxyacetone as the tanning agent was prepared and applied to a panelist. The preheated sample delivered a bronze glow within five minutes while an identical, non-heated sample required more than double the time to achieve similar coloration.

Improved moisturization with heated niacinamide: Unilever PLC has also found that heated niacinamide improves skin moisturization.3 A body lotion containing 1.50% niacinamide together with glycerin, stearic acid, magnesium aluminum silicate, silicone, glyceryl monostearate/stearamide AMP, isopropyl myristate, petrolatum, triethanolamine, glycerol monostearate, cetyl alcohol, fragrance, DMDM hydantoina, titanium dioxide, disodium EDTA and water was prepared and applied to a panelist. The preheated composition imparted more rapid moisturization than expected when compared with the non-heated sample at RT, which resulted in drier, less moisturized skin.

Protecting skin from osmotic shock: Sederma published a patent on homarine and erythritol in a moisturizing cosmetic or dermopharmaceutic composition.4 The company also disclosed a method to non-therapeutically treat the skin to improve cutaneous hydration, prevent and/or treat cutaneous dryness signs, restore and/or protect the cutaneous barrier function and protect cells of the skin and/or the scalp from osmotic shock such as that which is UV-induced. After inducing hyperosmotic shock in cultured human keratinocytes, researchers showed the combination of homarine and erythritol to produce osmo-protective effects. Various products containing this combination were provided.