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Boosting SPF with Copolymers and Other Topics: Literature Findings
By: Charles Fox, Independent Consultant
Posted: April 30, 2010, from the May 2010 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.
- Formula 1. Skin improvement cream1
- Formula 2. Skin tanning composition2
- Formula 3. Skin lightening cream with anti-inflammatory agent3
- Formula 4. Hair dye6
- Formula 5. Oily hair treatment lotion8
- Formula 6. Permanent wave for bleached hair9
- Formula 7. Lipstick with skin swelling properties10
- Formula 8. Hydrodispersion sunscreen for allergic skin12
- Formula 9. High SPF o/w sunscreen emulsion13
- Formula 10. Solid powder cosmetic composition15
- Formula 11. Skin care emulsion18
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Interesting Compositions, Ingredients
Solid, powder cosmetics: Kao Corp. has disclosed solid powdered cosmetics containing oils and polyols, as well as the manufacture of such compositions.15 Specifically, the compositions contain: powders with an average particle size of 0.1–200 mum; 15–30% w/w oils that are liquid at 25°C; and 15–30% w/w polyols that are liquid at 25°C. To manufacture the powder, vibration is applied at a frequency of 10–40 kHz and an amplitude of 10–100 mum during pressure forming. An example is shown in Formula 10. The composition described was formed under a pressure of 4.2 kg/cm2 and a vibration of 20 kHz and 20 mum to give a solid, powdered cosmetic with good impact resistance and surface appearance, a moist feeling and long-lasting effects.
Heated lotion for skin care: Unilever PLC has patented a heated, flowable lotion and a method for treating skin with it.16 The invention involves dispensing the lotion from a heating device and includes instructions for application to the skin. The formula includes an inorganic structurant material such as a clay, which functions to retain viscosity over a wide temperature range. Even under shear, the clay reportedly allows for a clean cut-off at the nozzle of the heating device.
Refreshing, milky skin preparation: Shiseido Company Ltd. has patented an emulsified, o/w, milky skin cosmetic preparation incorporating 2-acrylamide 2-methylpropanesulfonate copolymer to impart a refreshing feeling, astringent and moisturizing effects, and softening benefits to skin.17 The preparation is excellent in terms of emulsion stability despite its high water content and low viscosity, appearing a milk-white color. The preparation has a viscosity at 25°C of 10,000 mPa·s and is preferably formulated with: 0.005–2.0% w/w copolymer of 2-acrylamide 2-methylpropanesulfonic acid or a salt thereof/polyoxyethylene alkyl ether methacrylate; 0.005–1.5% w/w alkyl modified carboxyvinyl polymer; and 0.005–15.0% w/w alkylene oxide derivative. The skin cosmetic preparation may further contain an oil with a viscosity at 25°C of 100 mPa·s or less that is a liquid at an ordinary temperature. Furthermore, the preparation preferably comprises 55–80% w/w water.
O/W emulsion: Beiersdorf AG has disclosed cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing 3-(4-hydroxy-3-methoxyphenyl)-1-(4-hydroxphenyl)-propane-1-one and one or more anionic, nonionic or polymeric emulsifiers.18 P-hydroxyacetophenone was reacted with vanillin to prepare 3-(4-hydroxy-3-methoxyphenyl)-1-(4-hydroxyphenyl)-2-propene-1-one, followed by the catalytic hydrogenation of the product to obtain the title compound. An o/w emulsion containing the material is shown in Formula 11. Reproduction of the article without expressed consent is strictly prohibited.
Send e-mail to CT_author@allured.com.
1. WO 2009 101,344, Combination of a light ray with a cytochrome c oxidase substrate particularly for improving the appearance of the skin and/or hair, L’Oréal, France (Aug 20, 2009)
2. EP 2,087,879, Skin tanning agent with dihydroxyacetone on a water-wax-oil basis, Coty Prestige Lancaster Group GmbH, Germany (Aug 12, 2009)
3. EP 2,090,301, 3-(4-hydroxy-3-methoxyphenyl)-1-(4-hydroxyphenyl)-1-propanone and its use in cosmetic and pharmaceutical preparations as anti-inflammatory agent, Symrise GmbH & Co KG, Germany (Aug 19, 2009)
4. WO 2009 101,322, Cosmetic composition comprising a cationic surfactant compound, novel compounds, use as conditioner and cosmetic treatment method, L’Oréal, France (Aug 20, 2009)
5. WO 2009 101,321, Cationic surfactant compounds, use thereof as conditioner, cosmetic treatment method, and cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions comprising same, L’Oréal, France (Aug 20, 2009)
6. EP 2,092,933, Use of particular cationic polymers in a hair dye composition associated with a chelating agent as antioxidants or free-radical scavengers, L’Oreal, France (Aug 26, 2009)
7. WO 2009 97,885, Hair styling composition containing anhydrous lactulose, Unilever PLC and NV, and Hindustan Unilever Ltd, UK (Aug 13, 2009)
8. JP 2009 184,949, Oily hair cosmetics with stable gelation properties and excellent applicability, nonstickiness, and smoothness, Shiseido Co, Ltd, Japan (Aug 20, 2009)
9. JP 2009 191,062, Kits of permanent wave-setting preparations with suppressed damages to hair and excellent hair-conditioning properties, Mandom Corp, Japan (Aug 27, 2009)
10. EP 2,090,294, Two-part cosmetic product with swelling effect to biological surfaces comprising a siloxane polymer, polyol and hydrosiloxane, Coty Deutschland GmbH, Germany (Aug 19, 2009)
11. B Albertini et al, Evaluation of spray congealing as technique for the preparation of highly loaded solid lipid microparticles containing the sunscreen agent, avobenzone, J Pharm Sci 98(8) 2759–2769 (2009) (in English)
12. EP 2,092,928, Sunscreen hydrodispersion with SPF equal or greater than 50 for application to allergic skin, Stada Arzneimittel AG, Germany (Aug 26, 2009)
13. EP 2,092,930, O/W sunscreen emulsions with SPF equal or greater than 50 and containing titania, zinc oxide and methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (Tinosorb M), Stada Arzneimittel AG, Germany (Aug 26, 2009)
14. US 2009 202,459, Photoprotective compositions with glycol and styrene-acrylate copolymer spheres, Playtex Products, Inc, USA (Aug 13, 2009)
15. JP 2009 184,944, Solid powdered cosmetics containing oils and polyols, and their manufacture, Kao Corp, Japan (Aug 20, 2009)
16. US 2009 208,592, Thickened product and method for transferring heated flowable cosmetic onto skin, Unilever PLC, USA (Aug 20, 2009)
17. US 2009 202,600, Oil-in-water emulsified milky skin cosmetic preparation comprising a 2-acrylamide 2-methylpropanesulfonate copolymer, Shiseido Company Ltd, Japan (Aug 13, 2009)
18. EP 2,090,286, Cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing 3-(4-hydroxy-3-methoxyphenyl)-1-(4-hydroxphenyl)-propane-1-one and one or more emulsifier, Beiersdorf AG, Germany (Aug 19, 2009)