Boosting SPF with Copolymers and Other Topics: Literature Findings

By: Charles Fox, Independent Consultant

Posted: April 30, 2010, from the May 2010 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.

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The cationic surfactant N,N,N-trimethyl-3-{8-(2-octylcyclopropyl)octa-noyloxy}propan- 1-aminium methyl sulfate also was used as a conditioner for hair care.⁵ The surfactant was prepared by the reaction of 3-(dimethylamino)propyl-8-(2-octylcyclopropyl)octanoate with dimethylsulfate. In addition to its use in hair care, N,N,N-trimethyl-3-{8-(2-octylcyclopropyl)octa-noyloxy}propan-1-aminium methyl sulfate can be formulated into pharmaceutical compositions. A hair conditioner containing 3.00% w/w N,N,N-trimethyl-3-{8-(2-octylcyclopropyl)octa-noyloxy}propan-1-aminium methyl sulfate with and a balance of water was provided.

Cationic polymers for hair dye: Another patent issued to L’Oréal covers the use of cationic or amphoteric polymers in a hair dye composition, along with an oxidative dye and a chelating agent.⁶ The ingredient combination prevents the degradation of hair color by acting as an antioxidant or free radical scavenger. An example is shown in Formula 4.

Lactulose for hair styling: Unilever disclosed a hair styling composition containing anhydrous lactulose and at least one suitable carrier, styling polymer or surfactant.⁷ Lactulose showed substantial styling and anti-humidity benefits when tested on hair swatches.

Stable, smooth hair products: Shiseido Co., Ltd. discloses oily products such as conditioners, hair oils or foams that exhibit stable gelation properties, excellent applicability, nonstickiness and smoothness.⁸ The hair products described had continuous oil phases and contained 0.1–60% w/w block alkylene oxide derivatives, 0.1–99% w/w volatile hydrocarbon and/or silicone oils, 0.1–99% silicones and 0.1–10% w/w water. The alkylene oxide derivative used has the following formula:

R1O(AO)l(EO)m(AO)nR2