Boosting SPF with Copolymers and Other Topics: Literature Findings
Formulas
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Formula 1. Skin improvement cream1
Formula 1. Skin improvement cream1
Ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide (Hostacerin AMPS, Clariant) 1.00% w/w Cyclohexasiloxane 5.00 Glycerin 1.70 Stearyl alcohol 0.30 Glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate 0.70 Dimyristyl tartrate (and) cetearyl alcohol (and) C12-15 pareth-7 (and) PPG-25 laureth-25 0.50 Xanthan gum 0.20 Cytochrome C oxidase 0.50 Preservatives 0.50 Water (aqua) qs to 100.00 - Formula 2. Skin tanning composition2
Formula 2. Skin tanning composition2
Dihydroxyacetone 1.70% w/w Viola Tricolor Extract 1.30 Vanilla plantifolia extract (and) water (aqua) (and) propylene glycol 1.20 Glycerin 3.50 Polyethylene 1.20 Vitex agnus castus extract (and) water (aqua) (and) glycerin (and) alcohol 1.10 Nylon 4.00 7-10% extract mixture of green coffee beans (and) Camelia sinensis (and) Pongamia pinnata (and) Angelica archangelica (and) ethanol, 70% (and) water (aqua) (RPF-complex, Lancaster) 0.20 Glycerin 0.20 Lecithin 0.20 Ascorbyl palmitate 0.20 Tocopherol 0.20 Ascorbic acid 0.20 Preservative qs Lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone 0.60 Ceresin 3.20 Microcrystalline wax 1.80 Dibutyl adipate 2.30 PEG-10 dimethicone (and) PEG-10 1.30 Cyclopentasiloxane (and) cyclohexasiloxane 26.00 Butylene glycol 1.80 Talc 2.50 Titanium dioxide 1.90 Iron oxides 1.00 Phenoxyethanol 0.70 Carnauba wax 2.80 Ozokerite 4.10 Stearyl dimethicone 2.40 Silica 2.80 Magnesium sulfate 1.00 Methyl methacrylate crosspolymer 2.70 Water (aqua) qs to 100.00 - Formula 3. Skin lightening cream with anti-inflammatory agent3
Formula 3. Skin lightening cream with anti-inflammatory agent3
3-(4-Hydroxy-3-methoxyphenyl)-1-(4-hydroxyphenyl)-1-propanone 0.30% w/w Dimethicone 0.50 Arbutin 1.00 Sodium ascorbyl phosphate 2.00 Bisabolol 0.30 Ceramide 2 0.10 Glyceryl stearate citrate (Dracorin CE, Symrise) 5.00 Water (aqua) (and) butylene glycol (and) glycerin (and) Avena sativa (oat) kernel extract (Drago-Beta-Glucan, Symrise) 0.30 Ethylhexyl ethylhexanoate (Dragoxat EH, Symrise ) 3.00 Glycerin 3.00 Zingiber officinale (ginger) root extract 0.003 Isopropyl palmitate 4.00 Kojic acid 1.00 Cetyl alcohol 1.00 Caprylic/capric triglyceride 6.00 Cetearyl ethylhexanoate (PCL Liquid 100, Symrise) 3.00 4-(1-Phenylethyl)-1,3-benzenediol 0.50 1,2-Hexanediol (and) caprylyl glycol (Symdiol 68, Symrise) 0.50 Fragrance (parfum) 0.30 Water (aqua) qs to 100.00 - Formula 4. Hair dye6
Formula 4. Hair dye6
Pentasodium diethylene triamine pentaacetaic acid, 40% 2.00% w/w Ammonium thiolactate, 58% 0.80 Ammonium hydroxide, 28% 10.00 Monoethanolamine 1.35 Silica 1.20 1-beta-Hydroxyethyloxy-2,4-diamino-benzene dihydrochloride 0.15 2-Methyl-1,3-dihydroxybenzene 0.81 Titanium dioxide 0.15 N,N-bis(2-Hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine sulfate monohydrate 0.21 1,3-Dihydroxybenzene 1.29 1-Hydroxy-3-aminobenzene 0.33 1,4-Diaminobenzene 1.84 Glycol distearate 2.00 Cetylstearyl alcohol 11.50 Fragrance (parfum) 0.60 Tetramethylhexamethylenediamine-dichloro-1,3-propylene 4.00 Carboxyvinyl polymer 0.60 Propylene glycol 7.00 Lauric acid 3.00 Polyoxyethylene lauryl alcohol 7.00 Polyoxyethylene decyl alcohol 10.00 Polyoxyethylene oleocetyl alcohol 4.00 Water (aqua) qs to 100.00 - Formula 5. Oily hair treatment lotion8
Formula 5. Oily hair treatment lotion8
Polyoxyethylene-polyoxybutylene di-methyl ether 10.00% w/w Methyl phenyl polysiloxane 10.00 Dimethylpolysiloxane 10.00 Water (aqua) 2.50 Isododecane qs to 100.00 - Formula 6. Permanent wave for bleached hair9
Formula 6. Permanent wave for bleached hair9
Reducing solution Lauryltrimethylammonium chloride 0.50% w/w Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride 0.50 Aminoethylaminopropylsiloxane dimethylsiloxane copolymer 0.20 Lanolin 0.20 DL-cysteine hydrochloride 7.00 Ammonium thioglycolate 1.00 Water (aqua) qs to 100.00 Oxidizing solution Lauryltrimethylammonium chloride 0.30 Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride 0.30 Lanolin fatty acid aminopropylethyldimethylammonium ethyl sulfate 0.50 Poly(oxyethylene-oxypropylene)-butylene-methylpolysiloxane copolymer 0.50 Lanolin 0.20 Sodium bromate 8.00 Water (aqua) qs to 100.00 - Formula 7. Lipstick with skin swelling properties10
Formula 7. Lipstick with skin swelling properties10
Part 1 Dimethiconol (and) cyclomethicone 25.00% w/w PEG 8-beeswax 20.00 Red 7 Calcium Lake 10.00 Mica 5.00 Cyclomethicone 24.00 Caprylyl glycol 1.00 Polymethylhydrosiloxane 15.00 100.00 Part 2 Platinum-divinyltetramethyl -disiloxane 1.00 Cyclomethicone 99.00 100.00 - Formula 8. Hydrodispersion sunscreen for allergic skin12
Formula 8. Hydrodispersion sunscreen for allergic skin12
Water (aqua) 34.05% w/w Disodium EDTA 0.10 Xanthan gum 0.50 Pentylene glycol 5.00 Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acetate crosspolymer 0.35 Phenylbenzolimidazole sulfonic acid 4.00 Tromethamine, 20% 13.00 Ethylhexyl salicylate 5.00 C12-15 alkyl benzoate 16.00 Ethylhexyl triazone 3.00 Butyl methoxydibenzoyl methane 5.00 bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine 2.00 Trimethoxycaprylyl silane 9.00 Ethyl alcohol 3.00 100.00 - Formula 9. High SPF o/w sunscreen emulsion13
Formula 9. High SPF o/w sunscreen emulsion13
Cetyl alcohol 1.00% w/w Cetearyl alcohol 1.00 Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 10.00 Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate 7.00 Octyldodecanol 8.00 Decyl glucoside 1.00 Zinc oxide 0.60 Titanium dioxide (and) aluminum hydroxide (and) stearic acid 8.00 Methylene bis-benzyotriazolyl tetra-methyl butylphenol 7.50 Xanthan gum 0.30 Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate cross-polymer 0.50 Disodium EDTA 0.10 Glycerin 5.00 Panthenol 1.00 Alcohol 10.00 Sodium hydroxide 0.05 Water (aqua) qs to 100.00 - Formula 10. Solid powder cosmetic composition15
Formula 10. Solid powder cosmetic composition15
Silicone-treated mica, 20 mum 42.00% w/w Silicone-treated talc, 7 mum 10.00 Silicone-treated sericite, 8 mum 25.00 Nylon powder, 5 mum 5.00 Liquid isoparaffin 7.50 Dimethylpolysiloxane 4.00 Diisostearyl malate 3.00 Glycerin 2.50 Paraffin wax 1.00 100.00 - Formula 11. Skin care emulsion18
Formula 11. Skin care emulsion18
Glyceryl stearate citrate 2.00% w/w Stearyl alcohol 2.00 Cetyl alcohol 2.00 Hydrogenated cocoglycerides 2.00 Caprylic/capric triglyceride 2.00 Octyldodecanol 2.00 Cyclomethicone 3.00 Dicaprylyl ether 2.00 Tocopherylacetate 0.50 Ubiquinone Q10 0.10 Sodium ascorbyl phosphate 0.10 3-(4-Hydroxy-3-methoxyphenyl)-1-(4-hydroxphenyl)-propane-1-one 0.20 Urea 0.50 Ceramide III 0.10 Taurine 0.50 Cholesterol 0.30 Methylparaben 0.40 Ethylhexylglycerol 0.50 Carrageenan 0.30 Carbomer 0.20 EDTA 0.20 Glycerin 8.00 Coloring agents 0.10 Nylon qs Butylated hydroxytoluene 1.00 Fragrance (parfum) qs Water (aqua) qs to 100.00 By: Charles Fox, Independent Consultant
Posted: April 30, 2010, from the May 2010 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.
This month’s survey of recent patent and research literature describes moneymaking ideas for personal care development, including an anti-inflammatory to soothe the skin post raw material irritation, lactulose for hair styling, reducing the damage caused by perms, boosting SPF with copolymers and the treatment of skin with heated lotion, among others.
Skin and Skin Care
Light activation of cytochrome C oxidase: L’Oréal has disclosed the activation of a cytochrome C oxidase substrate with light radiation to improve the appearance of skin and/or hair.1 The invention comprises the simultaneous and/or sequential administration of: at least one cytochrome C oxidase substrate, at least one agent to increase the expression of said substrate, and at least one light radiation source with a predominant wavelength ranging 550–1,000 nm, preferably 640–680 nm, to activate the cytochrome C oxidase. A radiation dose ranging 0.01– 200 J/cm2, specifically 5–30 J/cm2, was applied in the described method. The invention also relates to a kit including all three components. An example of a skin improvement cream is shown in Formula 1.Refreshing DHA self-tanner: Coty Prestige Lancaster Group GmbH has patented a self tanner comprised of 1.0–3.0% w/w dihydroxyacetone (DHA), 8.0–35 % w/w water, 5.0–30 % w/w wax and 3.0–35% w/w oil, 1.0–7.0% w/w pigments and additional cosmetic agents and excipients.2 The compositions are free from emulsifiers, and the ratio of water to oil is 0.8–1:1.5–3. This storage-stable composition is said to produce instantaneous, even and continuous tanning with a feeling of freshness. An example is shown in Formula 2.
Anti-inflammatory to soothe irritation: Symrise GmbH and Co. has disclosed the use of 3-(4-hydroxy-3-methoxyphenyl)-1-(4-hydroxyphenyl)-1-propanone in cosmetic and pharmaceutical preparations as an anti-inflammatory agent to soothe the irritation caused by other cosmetic ingredients.3 The described compositions contain additional anti-inflammatory agents and sunscreens with SPF > 2. P-hydroxyacetophenone was reacted with vanillin to prepare 3-(4-hydroxy-3-methoxyphenyl)-1-(4-hydroxyphenyl)-2-propene-1-one, followed by the catalytic hydrogenation of the product to obtain the title compound. An example of a skin lightening cream with the anti-inflammatory agent is shown in Formula 3.
Hair and Hair Care
Cationic surfactant hair conditioners: L’Oréal has patented the use of two separate cationic surfactants as conditioners in hair care compositions, as well as a process for treating hair with the compounds.4 The first composition utilizes cationic quaternary ammonium esters derived from 2-[2-(diethylamino)ethoxy] ethanol as the conditioning agent. 2-[2-(Diethylamino)ethoxy]ethyl decanoate was reacted with diethylsulfate to obtain 2-[2-(decanoyoxy)ethoxy]-N,N,N-triethylethanaminium chloride. A hair preparation composed of 15% inulin, 2% pectin, 1% 2-[2-(decanoyoxy)ethoxy]-N,N,N-triethylethanaminium chloride and balance of water is provided. - Formula 2. Skin tanning composition2