Build a solid foundation in science, formulation and product development—find out more!
Most Popular in:
Microemulsions for Sprayable Delivery and Other Topics: Literature Findings
By: Charles Fox, Independent Consultant
Posted: March 30, 2010, from the April 2010 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.
page 4 of 6
Makeup Long wear, effect color cosmetics: Kosei Co., Ltd. has disclosed w/o emulsion makeup with special effects and that protects from easy removal.10 The makeup includes eye, highlighting and cheek color cosmetics containing lipophilic silicone surfactants with: a hydrophilic-lipophilic balance of 3–7, acrylic silicone graft copolymers, high viscosity oils, volatile silicone oils and powders. An example of an eye makeup is shown in Formula 2. The preparation imparted a transparent gloss and three-dimensional appearance to the skin, showing good application and retention on the skin for 8 hr.
Ascorbic acid UVA filter: Merck GmbH has patented a UVA filter based on ascorbic acid derivatives and the use of the derivatives in hair and skin compositions.11 The company prepared 2-(4-dihexylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)-benzoic acid ascorbyl ester from vitamin C and 2-(4-dihexylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)-benzoic acid. The derivative was formulated at 1% w/w in a UVA w/o emulsion, as shown in Formula 3.
Photostabilization of UV filters: An anonymous article reviewed the photostabilization of cosmetic UV filters before decomposition by UV irradiation.12 Target UV filters were: butyl dibenzoylmethanea; cinnamate UV filters such as ethylhexyl methoxycinnamateb, octyl methoxycinnamate and octinoxate; or filters such as diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate. Photostabilizers included diphenylcyanoacrylate derivatives such as octocrylene, polycrylene, undecylcrylene dimethicone or naphthalates such as diethylhexyl 2,6 naphthalatec. Photo-unstable UV filters can be stabilized with antioxidants such as hydroxy dimethoxybenzyl malonate and hydroxy dimethoxybenzylidenmalonate. Formulations were given for w/o emulsions, hair care products, cosmetic foams, o/w emulsions and hydrodispersions for use as lotions/sprays.
Interesting Compositions and Ingredients
Silicone foaming and detergency: Shiseido Company Ltd. and Dow Corning Toray Co., Ltd. have disclosed silicone compounds for cleansing compositions with excellent foaming properties and detergency.13 The cleansing composition contains an organosiloxane derivative salt with the structure shown in either Eq. 1 or Eq. 2, and one or more anionic surfactants from a carboxylic acid salt group with an alkyl group of 10–20 carbon atoms including sulfuric acid salts, sulfonic acid salts and phosphoric acid salts.
R1R2R3Si(CH2)2ACOOM Eq. 1