Stable O/W Nanoemulsions for Skin and Other Topics: Literature Findings

By: Charles Fox, Independent Consultant

Posted: February 26, 2010, from the March 2010 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.

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Hair and Hair Care
Protecting blond hair color: Beiersdorf AG has patented a surfactant-containing hair care preparation to protecting blond-colored hair from dye removal during washing.⁵ Ingredients in the composition included a pigment, cationic surfactant and bis-diglycerylpolyacyladipate-2 (bis-DGPAA). Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride is the preferred cationic quaternary surfactant, and the compositions are free of anionic surfactants. Thickening agents, cellulose derivatives, reflecting pigments and coated pigments can also be added. An example is shown in Formula 3.

Hair styling composition: Shiseido Co., Ltd. has disclosed emulsion-type hair styling preparations that exhibit excellent spreadability among other properties while also being non-tacky and imparting no “squeaky” feeling.⁶ Disclosed is a preparation comprising: preferably 0.1–10.0% w/w of a specific long-chain acylsulfonic acid salt type anionic surfactant such as sodium N-stearoyl-N-methyltaurate; 0.1–20.0% of a higher aliphatic alcohol; and one or selections of: 0.5–50% waxes, 0.1–8.0% hair styling resins, 0.1–8.0% powder components such as silicic acid anhydrides and/or water; and optionally, a liquid oil. An example of a hair styling composition is shown in Formula 4.

Oxidative hair dye: L’Oréal disclosed a hair dye composition containing 3-amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine or one of its additive salts with an acid, one or more additional oxidation dyes, and one or more quaternary diammonium polycondensates.⁷ An example of an oxidative hair dye composition is shown in Formula 5.

Makeup
Fluorescent pigment flakes: L’Oréal also has patented a cosmetic composition comprising flakes containing: at least one fluorescent agent entrapped in a hybrid matrix of at least one metal oxide; at least one hydrophobic group linked to that metal oxide; and at least one organic surfactant in a cosmetically acceptable medium.⁸ Fluorescent flakes were prepared from a tetramethoxysilane and methyltrimethoxysilane polymer, dicocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate (and) propylene glycol^a, glycereth-25 PCA isostearate, hexylene glycol, and D&C Red 28 or D&C Orange 5. The fluorescent flakes were incorporated into a nail enamel that imparted a red-orange fluorescent color after application to the nails. The red flakes were also incorporated into a powder foundation and a lip gloss.

Antiperspirants and Deodorants
Interfacial microparticles for AP/Deo: L’Oréal has also disclosed deodorant and/or antiperspirant compositions containing interfacial microparticles and a process for the treatment of perspiration and/or body odors such as axillary odors.⁹ The compositions comprised at least a deodorant/antiperspirant active agent and interferential particles where at least 50% of the particles had a diameter less than 40 mum and more than 80 mum. An example of a roll-on antiperspirant is shown in Formula 6.