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Instant/Gradual Self Tanning and Other Topics: Literature Findings
By: Charles Fox, Independent Consultant
Posted: February 1, 2010, from the February 2010 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.
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Durable hair styling composition: L’Oréal has patented a cosmetic composition containing a vinylformamide/vinylformamine copolymer and an ionic or nonionic polymer for the treatment of hair.10 In addition to the polymer and copolymer, the composition also contained 5% anionic and nonionic surfactant. These compositions were used to obtain particularly durable hairstyles. The composition of a hair styling cream is shown in Formula 5.
Oxidative hair dye composition: L’Oréal also discloses an oxidative hair dye composition formulated with 3-amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine or one of its additive salts with an acid, one or more oxidation dyes and one or more polyols.11 An example is shown in Formula 6.
Nonsticky hair styling preparations: Shiseido Co., Ltd., has disclosed nonsticky, emulsified hair styling preparations with good spreadability, a smooth texture and no squeaky feel.12 The preparations contained cationic surfactants; higher aliphatic alcohols; 0.5–25% waxes; water; 0.1–8% film forming polymers and/or 0.1–3% powders; and optional oils. The hair styling preparation disclosed was formulated with methylpolysiloxane, microcrystalline wax, mineral oil, hydrogenated polyisobutene, pentaerythrityl tetra-2-ethylhexanoate, PEG 60-glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl stearate, cetanol, stearyl alcohol, tocopherol, fragrance, water, propylene glycol, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, kaolin, triethanolamine, and polyvinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymer.
Encapsulated coloring agents: Unilever PLC has disclosed the use of encapsulated coloring agents to impart a healthy appearance to skin.13 The composition was formed using a 0.1–20% w/w composition of beads, 1–80% of the first coloring agent incorporated within a matrix of the beads, and a cosmetically acceptable carrier. The beads were coated to exhibit an exterior color other than that of the first coloring agent. The company found that the most efficacious encapsulation system incorporated hydrophilic polysaccharides, cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose and mannitol, combined with the pigments titanium dioxide and red iron oxide.
Lip composition: L’Oréal has patented a cosmetic composition for the lips with a fatty phase containing an organopolysiloxane elastomer and at least one pasty hydrocarbon compound.14 An example of a lipstick is shown in Formula 7. Instant/gradual self tanner: Unilever has patented a self tanning composition formulated to impart a glow/shiny effect on skin.15 The composition includes a sunless tanning agent and coated beads containing a tan-colored pigment. Distributed within the bead coating is a colorant to impart color to the beads other than tan. The disclosed invention thus imparts an immediate tan on skin via the disintegrated beads and the sunless tanning agent acts more slowly, eventually replacing the pigment effect. The coating with colorant renders the formula more esthetically pleasing color such as white, preventing the formula from appearing tan undesirably.
Grease-proof lip composition: Shiseido Co., Ltd., has disclosed grease-proof cosmetics containing interference color-producing platy composite powders and spherical composite powders that have a refractive index of 1.40–1.60 and are coated with components having a refractive index of 2.00–2.90.16 The cosmetics can be used in various applications, such as lipsticks, eye shadows, mascaras and foundations, without base makeup to obscure wrinkles. Red interference color-producing spherical composite powders with an average particle size of 6 mum were prepared by coating spherical silicone dioxide powders with an average particle size of 5 mum and a refractive index of 1.46 with rutile-type titanium dioxide with a refractive index of 2.5–2.7 using titanium tetrachloride. These composite powders were combined with: mica (and) titanium dioxidec, silicone-treated titanium dioxide, silicone-treated red iron oxide, silicone-treated yellow iron oxide, Japan Blue 1 aluminum lake, polyethylene wax, microcrystalline wax, paraffin, diisostearyl malate, heavy liquid isoparaffin and dimethicone, and were mixed upon heating and cooled to create a lipstick that showed moderate pearlescence and a good grease-proof effect.
Interesting Compositions and Ingredients
Stable o/w emulsions with good feel: Hoyu Co., Ltd., has disclosed o/w emulsions with excellent appearance, stability and applicability, such as hair creams, hand creams and face creams, that contain 15–40% w/w nonpolar oils selected from: dimethylpolysiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and C < 30 isoparaffins.17 These nonpolar oils were combined with 1–10% w/w polyoxyethylene dialkyl ethers with the following formula: