Visually Indicating Wipe Efficacy and Other Topics: Literature Findings

By: Charles Fox, Independent Consultant

Posted: December 30, 2009, from the January 2010 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.

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Antioxidants for added value sunscreen protection: Matsui et al. have published on non-sunscreen antioxidants for added value sunscreen photoprotection.⁵ The association between UV radiation (UVR) exposure and both skin cancer and photoaging is well-documented. In addition to conventional organic-chemical and physical mineral sunscreens, other non-sunscreen protective strategies have been developed, including topically applied botanical extracts, antioxidants and DNA repair enzymes. Standard terms relating to photoprotection such as SPF do not accurately reflect the photoprotection benefits of these materials. For example, despite minimal SPF values, extracts containing polyphenols such as (-)-epigallocatechin-3 have been shown to protect against UV-induced DNA damage and immune suppression in part through their ability to reduce oxidative stress.

These authors thus examined the addition of botanical antioxidants and vitamins C and E to broad-spectrum sunscreens to further decrease UV-induced damage and compared them with sunscreens alone. These agents were shown to enhance protection against UV-induced epidermal thickening, over-expression of MMP-1 and MMP-9, and depletion of CDla+ Langerhans cells. They concluded that, when applied topically to human skin in vivo, non-sunscreen materials such as botanical extracts, antioxidants and DNA repair enzymes can contribute value to sun care formulas.

Heat Shock Protein 27 for antiaging: L’Oréal has disclosed the cosmetic and therapeutic use of Heat Shock Protein 27 (HSP27) for the treatment of dry, aging or diseased epithelial skin.⁶ This invention related to human HSP27 expression, stability and activity in skin, in addition to its application. Analysis of HSP27 expression in vernal stripping stratum corneum skin samples from pre- and post-menopausal women indicated that HSP27 expression decreased in post-menopausal women. To overcome the effects of aging such as a thinning epidermis, the development of wrinkles and loss of firmness, elasticity, density and tone, or the effects skin disorders such as desquamation, ichthyosis, hyperkeratosis, skin reconstruction or dryness, an increase of HSP27 expression is suggested. Additionally, this invention could screen for antiaging agents.

Calgranulin A for dry skin or antiaging: L’Oréal also published on human calgranulin A expression and its cosmetic or pharmaceutical use for the treatment of dry, aging or diseased epithelial skin.⁷ Researchers analyzed calgranulin A expression via vernal stripping of the stratum corneum from pre- and post-menopausal women, identifying a decrease in calgranulin A expression in post-menopausal women. Similar to the HSP27, an increase in calgranulin A expression is proposed to overcome effects of aging such as a thinning epidermis, the development of wrinkles and loss of firmness, elasticity, density, tone or the effects of skin disorders such as desquamation, ichthyosis, hyperkeratosis, skin reconstruction, or dryness. This invention also could be used to screen for antiaging agents.

Cleansing composition for wipes: Johnson & Johnson GmbH has patented skin care compositions including nonionic surfactants and emollients, in addition to absorbent wipes that incorporate such compositions.⁸ One cleansing/skin treatment composition is provided that comprises at least 90% water, a nonionic surfactant, and one or more hydrophobic emollients present in a concentration of approximately 200–4000 ppm wherein the ratio of total surfactant concentration to total hydrophobic emollient concentration is about 0.5:2.5.