Phytosphingosine for Skin Differentiation and Other Topics: Literature Findings

By: Charles Fox, Independent Consultant

Posted: December 1, 2009, from the December 2009 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.

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Gemini amphiphiles: Yamamoto et al. have reviewed oil gelation using a novel Gemini-type peptide amphiphile.¹⁹ Gemini amphiphiles, having novel properties not found in other surfactants, have become the subject of recent research. The described study developed a process for the synthesis of sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine (DLGL) that consisted of two lauroylglutamates linked by glutamic acid-lysine-glutamic acid as a spacer. The company investigated its properties and characteristics, confirming that DLGL exhibits high affinity to hair and skin as well as penetration and repair capabilities. Moreover, DLGL showed oil gelation properties. A variety of oil gels were formed with 0.3% DLGL and the material was found to improve: sensory attributes, the water content in the SC, and makeup removal capabilities. Researchers suggest DLGL gel for use in makeup removers, skin care oil gels, massage oil gels and hair treatment gels.

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