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Phytosphingosine for Skin Differentiation and Other Topics: Literature Findings
By: Charles Fox, Independent Consultant
Posted: December 1, 2009, from the December 2009 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.
page 4 of 8
Hair conditioning with imidazoline: Henkel AG and Co. disclosed hair conditioning products containing imidazolines and selected silicones and/or cosmetic oils.7,8 The preparations described contained at least one imidazoline derivative with at least two long fatty groups and at least one silicone and/or one cosmetic oil. The weight ratio of the imidazoline derivative to silicones and/or cosmetic oils was 20:1 to 1:20. An example conditioning shampoo is shown in Formula 2.
Gentle shampoo for dyed hair: Henkel AG and Co., KGaA also has patented shampoos combining surfactants with hair care benefits.9 The shampoos disclosed gently cleansed hair and were found especially beneficial for dyed hair since the dye was washed out to a significantly lesser extent, in spite of high cleansing performance. The shampoos contained: 0.1–15% w/w cryptoanionic surfactant; 0.1–10% w/w of at least one amphoteric surfactant; 0.1–10%% w/w of at least one nonionic surfactant; and 0.001–10% w/w of at least one cationic guar derivative, cationic cellulose derivative or silicone in a cosmetically acceptable carrier.
Hair dye paste: Mario et al. disclose an anhydrous composition in a paste or pulverulent form for the coloring of human keratinous fibers comprising at least: one oxidation dye, one alkaline agent and one complex of hydrogen peroxide, and a polymer comprised of at least one vinyl heterocylic polymer.10 A method for coloring keratinous fibers is also described where the above mentioned anhydrous composition is mixed with an aqueous composition, advantageously devoid of hydrogen peroxide, and the resulting composition is applied to the keratinous fibers. The composition is left to stand, and the fibers are rinsed.
A paste containing sodium metasilicate, ammonium chloride, EDTA, sodium carboxymethylcellulose, diethylhexyl sodium sulfosuccinate/sodium benzoate, sodium lauryl sulfate, ascorbic acid, p-phenylenediamine, m-aminophenol, 2-methyl-5-hydroxyethylaminophenol, glycol distearate, polyvinylpyrrolidone/H2O2a, liquid paraffin and lanolin was mixed with water and applied to a lock of natural hair comprised of 90% white hairs for 30 min, resulting in a purplish color.
Bleaching keratin fibers: L’Oréal has published a process for bleaching human keratin fibers using an anhydrous composition and a particulate organic amine. The company also disclosed a suitable device for the bleaching composition.11 The composition was created with one or more fatty substances and surfactants; one or more organic amines whose pH was less than 12 at 25°C; and one or more oxidative agents.