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Natural Hair Dyes, Self-tanning Solutions and Other Topics: Literature Findings
By: Charles Fox, Independent Consultant
Posted: October 30, 2009, from the November 2009 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.
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Biofunctional DHA derivatives for self-tanning: Merck Patent GmbH created biofunctional dihydroxyacetone derivatives for self-tanning preparations.16 The formulations may further contain sunscreens, vitamins, insect repellents, preservatives, etc. Dihydroxyacetone-o-ethyl acetate was synthesized from dihydroxyacetone and triethylorthoacetate in dioxane using (+/-)-camphor-10-sulfonic acid catalyst. An example of an o/w self-tanning cream is shown in Formula 7.
Organopolysiloxanes as emulsifiers or dispersing agents: Evonik Goldschmidt disclosed the use of ester-modified polyether-free organopolysiloxanes as emulsifiers or dispersing agents in w/o, o/w and w/s cosmetic, pharmaceutical or cleaning formulations.17 Coco fatty acid was enzymatically esterified with allyloxyethanol and the product was reacted with glycerinmonoallylether and a polymethylsiloxane in the presence of a Karstedt catalyst. The obtained glycerinmonoallylether-, and allyloxyethanol coco fatty acid ester-modified polymethylsiloxane was formulated at 2.0% w/w in a cosmetic w/o emulsion along with 0.1% w/w hydrogenated castor oil, 0.1% w/w microcrystalline wax, 11.8% w/w liquid paraffin, 6.0% w/w ethylhexyl palmitate, 0.8% w/w sodium chloride, 3.1% w/w glycerin, 76% w/w water and 0.10% w/w 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol. Lipase inhibitors: Asahi Kasei Chemicals Corp. discussed lipase inhibitors containing water-soluble, beta-linked oligosaccharides in addition to disclosing cosmetic, (quasi) drug, or hair preparations containing the lipase inhibitors.18
Lipase inhibitors are useful to prevent or treat acne or body odor. They contain water-soluble carbohydrates comprising ≥ 2 beta-linked monosaccharides. An aqueos cellulose dispersion, prepared by grinding HCl hydrolyzates of dissolving pulp, was incubated with Trichoderma reesei-derived crude cellulase preparation at 55°C for 4 hr to give a composition containing 1.5% cellobiose.
The composition was filtered with an ultrafiltration membrane, treated with cation ion exchange resin and anion ion exchange resin for deionization, and vacuum-distilled at 70°C. The concentrate was gradually cooled at 10°C/hr, from 70°C to 5°C, and precipitated with ethanol. The precipitate was further processed to produce cellooligosaccharide powder containing 96.4% cellobiose and 0.8% additional cellooligosaccharides. The cellobiose-rich fraction inhibited Propionibacterium acnes lipase in a dose-dependent manner. A hair lotion containing the fraction imparted a refreshing feeling and smoothness to hair.
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