Natural Hair Dyes, Self-tanning Solutions and Other Topics: Literature Findings

By: Charles Fox, Independent Consultant

Posted: October 30, 2009, from the November 2009 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.

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Preventing damage in permanents: Nakano Co., Ltd. discloses an alkoxysilane hydrolyzate (Si oligomer) setting intermediate agent as part of a permanent wave-setting method that prevents hair damage.¹⁰ The method begins with the application of a reducing agent followed by treatment with an intermediate agent containing a keratin hydrolyzate with an average molecular weight of 25,000–35,000, and wool- or human hair-derived proteins with a molecular weight of 800–1,200, which include proteins having an average molecular weight (measured by gel-filtration column chromatogram) of 11,000 and 9,700. After the intermediate agent is applied, hair is treated with an acid-containing rinsing agent and finally, an oxidizing agent. The intermediate processing agent may contain Porphyra yezoensis hydrolyzate.

Color Cosmetics
Wax, paste to enhance eyelashes: L’Oréal has disclosed a color cosmetic composition for eyelashes consisting of a 10% w/w hard wax and paste compound.¹¹ The composition can be used to enhance eyelashes. An example of a mascara is shown in Formula 4.

Lip gloss: Coty S.A.S. introduced a lip gloss comprising stearoyl inulin, fatty acid derivatives, hydrogenated polyisobutene and fumed silica di-Me silicate gels in a sugar matrix.¹² The sugar gel matrix is made up of stearoyl inulin and an ester or ether with the formula R1COOR2, in which R1 is a residue of a fatty acid with 6–29 carbon atoms and R2 is a hydrocarbon-comprising chain with 3–30 carbon atoms. Also part of the sugar gel matrix is a hydrogenated polyisobutene gel and a fumed silica di-Me silicate gel in C15-19 hydrocarbon. An example of a lip gloss is shown in Formula 5.

Sun Care Stabilizing UV absorbers: Ciba Holding Inc. has addressed the stabilization of UV absorbers in cosmetic compositions.¹³ Such absorbers, including diphenylacrylates, triazines, benzotriazole derivatives, cinnamic acid derivatives and dibenzoylmethane derivatives, can be stabilized with octocrylene and/or a trisbiphenyltriazine. In a photodegradation study, the addition of octocrylene to a combination of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and 2,4,6-tribiphenylyl-1,3,5-triazine stabilized the ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate.

Glycyrrhizine in self-tanning: Beiersdorf AG introduced the use of glycyrrhetic acid and/or glycyrrhizine for self-tanning preparations.¹⁴ The compositions also can contain sunscreens. The composition of such a self-tanning product is shown in Formula 6. Beiersdorf AG also published a patent on the combination of erythrulose and glycyrrhetic acid and/or glycyrrhizine in cosmetic preparations for self-tanning.¹⁵