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Natural Hair Dyes, Self-tanning Solutions and Other Topics: Literature Findings
By: Charles Fox, Independent Consultant
Posted: October 30, 2009, from the November 2009 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.
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Preventing damage in permanents: Nakano Co., Ltd. discloses an alkoxysilane hydrolyzate (Si oligomer) setting intermediate agent as part of a permanent wave-setting method that prevents hair damage.10 The method begins with the application of a reducing agent followed by treatment with an intermediate agent containing a keratin hydrolyzate with an average molecular weight of 25,000–35,000, and wool- or human hair-derived proteins with a molecular weight of 800–1,200, which include proteins having an average molecular weight (measured by gel-filtration column chromatogram) of 11,000 and 9,700. After the intermediate agent is applied, hair is treated with an acid-containing rinsing agent and finally, an oxidizing agent. The intermediate processing agent may contain Porphyra yezoensis hydrolyzate.
Wax, paste to enhance eyelashes: L’Oréal has disclosed a color cosmetic composition for eyelashes consisting of a 10% w/w hard wax and paste compound.11 The composition can be used to enhance eyelashes. An example of a mascara is shown in Formula 4.
Lip gloss: Coty S.A.S. introduced a lip gloss comprising stearoyl inulin, fatty acid derivatives, hydrogenated polyisobutene and fumed silica di-Me silicate gels in a sugar matrix.12 The sugar gel matrix is made up of stearoyl inulin and an ester or ether with the formula R1COOR2, in which R1 is a residue of a fatty acid with 6–29 carbon atoms and R2 is a hydrocarbon-comprising chain with 3–30 carbon atoms. Also part of the sugar gel matrix is a hydrogenated polyisobutene gel and a fumed silica di-Me silicate gel in C15-19 hydrocarbon. An example of a lip gloss is shown in Formula 5.
Sun Care Stabilizing UV absorbers: Ciba Holding Inc. has addressed the stabilization of UV absorbers in cosmetic compositions.13 Such absorbers, including diphenylacrylates, triazines, benzotriazole derivatives, cinnamic acid derivatives and dibenzoylmethane derivatives, can be stabilized with octocrylene and/or a trisbiphenyltriazine. In a photodegradation study, the addition of octocrylene to a combination of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and 2,4,6-tribiphenylyl-1,3,5-triazine stabilized the ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate.
Glycyrrhizine in self-tanning: Beiersdorf AG introduced the use of glycyrrhetic acid and/or glycyrrhizine for self-tanning preparations.14 The compositions also can contain sunscreens. The composition of such a self-tanning product is shown in Formula 6. Beiersdorf AG also published a patent on the combination of erythrulose and glycyrrhetic acid and/or glycyrrhizine in cosmetic preparations for self-tanning.15