Natural Hair Dyes, Self-tanning Solutions and Other Topics: Literature Findings
Formulas
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Formula 1. Antiwrinkle cleansing gel3
Formula 1. Antiwrinkle cleansing gel3
1,6-Hexanediol 6.00% w/w Glycolic acid 3.80 Decyl glucoside 3.00 Sodium hydroxide 1.05 Dehydroxanthan gum 1.03 L-arginine 0.40 PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate 0.40 Fragrance (parfum) 0.10 Olea europea (olive) leaf extract 0.20 Water (aqua) qs to 100.00 - Formula 2. Hair dye with natural dyes7
Formula 2. Hair dye with natural dyes7
Xanthan gum (Keltrol CG, CP Kelco) 0.50% w/w Algin (Texamid 558, Cognis) 0.50 Glycerin 10.00 Ethanol 12.00 Coco-glucoside (Plantacare 818, Cognis) 0.40 Dipropylene glycol (and) Lawsonia inermis (henna) leaf extract (Henna Concentrate Red Coloring HS 2686 G, Grau) 0.40 Dipropylene glycol (and) Lawsonia inermis (henna) leaf extract (and) Indigofera tinctoria extract (Henna Concentrate Black Coloring HS 2687 G, Grau) 2.00 1,3-Dihydroxyacetone 2.00 Erythrulose 3.00 Orange oil 0.10 Water (aqua) qs to 100.00 - Formula 3. Hair relaxer9
Formula 3. Hair relaxer9
First Agent Isopropanol 0.260%w/w Hydrochloric acid, 1M 0.700 Methyltriethoxysilane 1.000 Tetraethoxysilane 0.110 Acetic acid 0.100 Polyoxyethylene-modified dimethicone 0.001 Polyacetal resin 0.170 Triethanolamine 0.001 Ethanol qs to 100.000 Second Agent Tetrahydroxypropylethylenediamine 0.300 Ethanol qs to 100.000 - Formula 4. Mascara11
Formula 4. Mascara11
Candelilla wax 16.00% w/w Carnauba wax 4.00 Jojoba oil 5.00 Black iron oxide 7.00 Gum arabic 3.40 Hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.90 Potassium cetyl phosphate 2.50 Steareth-20 5.00 Steareth-2 2.00 Cetyl alcohol 2.30 Preservatives qs Water (aqua) qs to 100.00 - Formula 5. Lip gloss12
Formula 5. Lip gloss12
Diisostearyl malate 9.35% w/w Stearoyl inulin 1.15 C15-19 alkane 9.24 Silica di-Me silicate 1.26 Hydrogenated polyisobutene gel 27.00 Polybutene 32.00 Polyethylene 1.00 Vinylpyrrolidone/hexadecene copolymer 4.00 Diisopropyl dimer dilinoleate 4.80 Preservatives 0.10 Pigments 0.10 Mica 10.00 100.00 - Formula 6. Self-tanning lotion14
Formula 6. Self-tanning lotion14
Stearic acid 2.00% w/w Dicaprylyl ester 3.00 Octyldodecanol 2.00 C12-15 alkyl benzoate 4.00 Cetyl alcohol 2.00 Cetearyl ethylhexanoate (and) isopropylmyristate 2.00 Glycerin 6.00 Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 2.00 Titanium dioxide 1.00 Cetyl palmitate 1.00 Glyceryl stearate 1.00 Phenoxyethanol 0.40 Butyl-methyoxydibenzoyl methane 2.00 Fragrance (parfum) qs EDTA 0.20 Carbomer 0.20 Magnesium aluminum silicate 0.20 Methylparaben 0.10 Vitamin A acetate 0.10 Glycyrrhetic acid 0.10 Propylparaben 0.05 BHT 0.05 Dihydroxyacetone 1.00 Water (aqua) qs to 100.00 - Formula 7. O/W self-tanning cream16
Formula 7. O/W self-tanning cream16
Ceteareth-11 (Marlipal 1618/11, Sasol Gmbh-Marl) 3.00% w/w Cetearyl alcohol (Lanette O, Cognis) 7.00 Cetearyl ethylhexanoate (Luvitol EHO, BASF ) 5.00 C12-15 alkyl benzoate (Tegosoft TN, Degussa) 2.50 Caprylic/capric triglyceride (Miglyol 812N, Sasol ) 2.50 Propylparaben 0.05 Dihydroxyacetone-ortho-ethyl acetate 5.00 Propylene glycol 4.00 Methylparaben 0.15 Water (aqua) qs to 100.00 By: Charles Fox, Independent Consultant
Posted: October 30, 2009, from the November 2009 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.
Skin and Skin Care
Pyrus pyrifolia wrinkle reduction: Ansung Machum Association introduced an antiwrinkle and antiaging cosmetic composition containing 0.05–5.0% w/w Pyrus pyrifolia extract.1 The composition is said to exhibit: an antioxidant effect due to DPPH-eliminating activity; hydroxyl-eliminating, superoxide anion-eliminating and singlet-oxygen-eliminating activity; and a skin-lightening effect due to tyrosinase and melanin synthesis inhibition. In addition, the composition imparts an antiwrinkle effect due to elastase and collagenase inhibition, and an anti-inflammation effect due to lipoxygenase inhibition. The composition is said to inhibit skin aging and reduce the appearance of wrinkles. Also, it has low toxicity.Urokinase inhibitors for barrier repair: Pentapharm AG published research on 4-amidinobenzylamine urokinase inhibitors for barrier repair in cosmetic and/or dermatological applications.2 In addition, compositions and non-therapeutic methods for the cosmetic treatment of skin and the scalp are disclosed. Urokinase inhibitors can be used to prevent damage to and restore the epidermal barrier. Barrier abnormalities and disruptions are often the starting point of a dry skin state and include itching, dandruff and the perception of sensitive skin. The described 4-amidinobenzylamine derivatives can be used in topical skin and scalp care creams, lotions, gels and shampoos to protect against these conditions.
An emulsion was prepared from four phases, the last of which contained benzylsulfonyl-D-der-gly-(4-aminobenzylamide). The correlation of transepithelial water loss and plasmin to urokinase activity in the stratum corneum (SC) was tested, showing that urokinase and plasmin are inhibited by the amidinobenzylamines on the top layers of the SC.
Carboxylic acids to clean aged skin: Henkel AG & Co. disclose hair and skin cleansers with low pH-containing hydroxycarboxylic acids and ketocarboxylic acids for application to aging skin.3 The cleansers contain water; a mild surfactant system with a maximum of 0.5–20% w/w surfactant; and at least 2% w/w alpha-hydroxycarboxylic acid, beta-hydroxycarboxylic acid and/or ketocarboxylic acid. The pH of the composition is 3.5–4.5. An example of an antiwrinkle cleansing gel is shown in Formula 1.
Fatty acid combos for shower moisturization: Unilever PLC discloses in-shower lotion compositions comprised of up to 10% w/w free fatty acids with the ratio of unsaturated to saturated fatty acids of at least 1:1.4 These rinse-off, skin-conditioning compositions comprise relatively low amounts of oil/emollient and aqueous phase stabilizer/structurant. Unexpectedly high hydration was found with the incorporation of an unsaturated fatty acid, such as oleic acid, as a percentage of the total fatty acid. In a second embodiment, superior hydration resulted from the use of a branched fatty acid, such as isostearic acid, with a minimum amount branched as a percentage of the total fatty acid. Mixtures of unsaturated and branched fatty acids also can be used.
- Formula 2. Hair dye with natural dyes7