Promoting Collagen with Glycerophospholipids and Other Topics: Literature Findings

By: Charles Fox, Independent Consultant

Posted: September 29, 2009, from the October 2009 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.

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Dentifrice Stabilizing color in oral peroxide formulations: Colgate-Palmolive Co. has disclosed color-stable, peroxide-containing dentifrice formulations with dye encapsulated silica shell nanoparticles.¹⁶ The composition for minimizing the color fade of an oral care composition is comprised of an organic dye such as FD&C Blue No. 1 encapsulated in a silica shell nanoparticle matrix; approx. 0.1–1% w/w of a physiological stable fluoride ion compound; and 1–2% w/w of a peroxide species compound such as hydrogen dioxide. The encapsulated silica shell dye nanoparticle stabilizes the color against degradation in the presence of peroxide and fluoride ions.

Interesting Compositions
Vesicle-silica complex: Shiseido Company Ltd. has developed compositions containing a vesicle-silica complex and provided a process for the production of this composition.¹⁷ The vesicle-containing composition exhibits improved stability and can release a medicinal or perfume component contained therein at a sufficiently reduced rate upon administration to a living body or application to the surface of the skin. A water-soluble silane derivative having a specific structure was added to and mixed with an aqueous composition containing a vesicle composed of a surfactant, thereby producing a vesicle-silica complex in which the polymerization of silica has proceeded on the outer surface of the vesicle to coat the outer surface with silica.

Glycerin-substituted tetraethoxysilane was prepared at 0.5% w/w and mixed with a 5% w/w polyoxyethylene dimethylpolysiloxane solution to form a vesicle-silica complex. Also, a transparently-dispersed cosmetic lotion containing 0.3% w/w polyethylene glycol dimethylpolysiloxane, 5% w/w dipropylene glycol, 0.5% w/w glycerin-substituted silane derivative, 0.05% limonene and a balance to 100% w/w of water was formulated.

Multifunctional polygala extracts: Maruzen Pharmaceuticals Co., Ltd. has disclosed title agents, cosmetics, foods and beverages containing extracts of Polygala chinensis, Polygala japonica, and/or Polygala arvensis as active ingredients. These actives can be used: as antioxidants, as platelet aggregation inhibitors, as TNF-alpha-formation promoters, in skin-lightening cosmetics, in foods, in beverages, as anti-inflammatory agents, in antiaging products, as anti-obesity agents, and as immunostimulating agents.¹⁸

The extracts promote the biosynthesis of IV collagen and glutathione, promote the proliferation of epidermis keratinocyte and fibroblast cells, promote the expression of HAS3 mRNA and aquaporin mRNA, show estrogenic activity and are useful for the treatment of UV-damaged skin. Therefore, 80% ethanol extract of Polygala chinensis, Polygala japonica, and Polygala arvensis scavenged superoxide with IC50 values of 55.7, 50.0 and 71.8 mug/mL respectively, and inhibited cAMP phosphodiesterase with IC50 values of 75.2, 76.4, and 81.3 mug/mL, respectively.