Promoting Collagen with Glycerophospholipids and Other Topics: Literature Findings

By: Charles Fox, Independent Consultant

Posted: September 29, 2009, from the October 2009 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.

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However, when the bicomponent system was applied, only the thiol groups were linked to the protein chains, even under hot permanent conditions at 45°C for 15 min. DTDGA thus serves as not only a reduction-regulating agent, but also as a thio-reforming agent. Therefore, it was concluded that DTDGA acts as an anti-damage agent in hair straightening formulations.

Preventing oxidative color loss: Brown et al. have disclosed a method for preventing color loss in oxidatively dyed hair.⁸ This method includes washing the hair with a shampoo composition and rinsing the composition from the hair. The shampoo composition contains 5–50% w/w anionic surfactant, 0.025-5% w/w synthetic cationic polymer, and enough water to equal 100% w/w. The cationic polymer has a cationic charge of 3 meq/g and forms lyotropic liquid crystals upon combination with the anionic surfactant.

Frizz management: L’Oréal disclosed a process for managing a keratinous substrate such as hair with a composition including: a phospholipid; a polyamine; a fatty monoamine or a fatty quaternary amine; at least one nonionic surfactant; an alkyl(ether)carboxylate with approx. 6–40 carbon atoms or an alkyl(ether)phosphate with approx. 6–40 carbon atoms; at least one water-insoluble material; and at least one film former.⁹ Thus, 1.5 g/swatch of 5% polyetherimide, 20% PPG-5 ceteth 20^a, 2% laureth-5 carboxylic acid, 3% mineral oil and 3% polyvinylpyrrolidone^b was massaged into hair swatches for 15 sec and allowed to stand at RT for 1 min. Good anti-frizz properties were documented.

Pastel hair coloring: Henkel AG & Co. has disclosed the pastel coloring of hair involving consecutive bleaching and dyeing steps, including:¹⁰ application of a hair bleaching preparation for up to 45 min, rinsing off the bleaching agent, application of the hair dye containing at least one natural dye, and rinsing off the hair dye. The hair dye contained ammonia rather than amines, hydrogen peroxide and other peroxides. This hair dye formulation also can include mins, ubiquinones, purine derivatives, saccharides, 2-furanone derivatives, taurine and bisabolol.

Preventing hair dye fade: Takara Belmont Co. has developed oxidative hair dyes formulated with post-dye treatment agents of cinchona bark extracts and antioxidants.¹¹ The post-hair dye treatments have a pH 4.0–7.0 at the time of use, and the complete hair dye has a pH of 7.0–12.0 at the time of use. A hair dye preparation containing ammonia water, p-phenylenediamine, resorcin, m-aminophenol, cinchona bark extract and ascorbic acid was mixed with a second preparation (pH 3.0) containing hydrogen peroxide at 1:1 by wt. to give a mixture with a pH 7.0–12.0. Hair dyed with the mixture was resistant to discoloration by UV irradiation.