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Promoting Collagen with Glycerophospholipids and Other Topics: Literature Findings
By: Charles Fox, Independent Consultant
Posted: September 29, 2009, from the October 2009 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.
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Delivery system for phytosterol sugar esters: Bioderm Research has disclosed a topical delivery system for phytosterol sugar esters for the treatment of skin conditions.4 This invention relates to certain sugar esters of phytosterols with the formula:
where n = 0, 1, 2 or 3; R = H, CH2OH, CH(OH)-CH2OH, CH(OH)-CH(OH)-CH2OH; and R1 = sapogenin, steroid, or terpenoid.
These esters are useful for the topical treatment of a variety of skin conditions including: pigmented spots, acne, loss of cellular antioxidants, collagen loss, loss of skin pliability, loss of skin suppleness, skin wrinkles including fine lines, oxidation, damage from radiation, malfunction of matrix metalloproteases, malfunction of tyrosinases, damage from free radicals, damage from UV, dry skin, xerosis, ichthyosis, dandruff, keratoses, melasma, lentigines, liver spots, dark circles under the eyes, oily skin, warts, eczema, pruritic skin, psoriasis, inflammatory dermatoses, topical inflammation, disturbed keratinization, skin changes associated with aging, nail or skin requiring cleansers, conditioning, conditioning/shampooing of the scalp, and combinations of the above.
Diosgenin gluconate was prepared with 10% w/w water, 5% w/w diosgenin, 81% w/w polyethylene glycol and 4% w/w gluconolactone. The ingredients were mixed and heated at 80–95°C for 2 hr and a clear solution was obtained. The resulting diosgenin gluconate can be used directly in subsequent cosmetic preparations.