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Promoting Collagen with Glycerophospholipids and Other Topics: Literature Findings
By: Charles Fox, Independent Consultant
Posted: September 29, 2009, from the October 2009 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.
This month’s survey of recent patent and research literature describes moneymaking ideas for personal care product development, including decreasing TiO2 damage, enhancing hydration with fatty acids, promoting collagen with glycerophospholipids, permanent hair straightening, and copolymers for adhesion in mascara, among others.
Skin and Skin Care
Enhancing penetration with PTDs: Lopes et al. have published on the enhanced skin penetration of P20 phosphopeptide by covalent attachment to protein transduction domains (PTDs).1 Researchers first evaluated whether non-covalently linked PTDs were capable of increasing the skin penetration of P20. Two different PTDs were studied: YARA and WLR. Porcine ear skin mounted in a Franz diffusion cell was used to assess the penetration of P20 into the stratum corneum (SC) and viable skin (VS). VS consists of the dermis and epidermis without SC. The transdermal delivery of P20 also was assessed. At 1 mM, YARA promoted a 2.33-fold increase in the retention of P20 in the SC but did not significantly increase the amount of P20 that reached the VS.
WLR, on the other hand, did significantly increase the penetration of P20 in VS by 2.88-fold. However, compared with the non-attached form, the covalently linked WLR fragment was two times more effective in promoting the penetration of P20 into the VS. None of the PTDs promoted transdermal delivery of P20 at 4 hr post-application. It was thus concluded that selected non-covalently linked PTDs can be used as a penetration enhancer but greater skin penetration efficiency can be achieved by covalently binding the PTD to the therapeutic agent.
2,2’-Cyclolignans for hair/skin pigmentation: Greentech disclosed the use of 2,2’-cyclolignans in the cosmetic or pharmaceutical field for inducing, restoring or stimulating the pigmentation of skin or hair.2 The efficacy of gomisin A on stimulating melanin synthesis in melanocyte B16 was shown.
Enhancing hydration with fatty acids: Unilever PLC has created in-shower, rinse-off lotion compositions to enhance skin hydration that comprise from 2–10% free fatty acids.3 The ratio of unsaturated to saturated fatty acids is 1:1 or greater, and the compositions contain relatively low amounts of oil/emollient and aqueous phase stabilizer/structurant. The use of unsaturated fatty acid, or at least a minimal amount of unsaturated fatty acid as a percentage of the total fatty acid, resulted in unexpectedly high hydration levels. Use of branched fatty acids, with a minimal amount branched as a percentage of total fatty acid, also resulted in superior hydration. Mixtures of unsaturated and branched fatty acids could be used as well. Thus, use of 3% unsaturated oleic acid in the lotion resulted in far greater hydration when compared with a similar composition containing 3% saturated lauric acid.