Evaluating Outside-in Skin Transparency and Other Literature Findings

By: Charles Fox, Independent Consultant

Posted: August 31, 2009, from the September 2009 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.

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Moisturization with fluorinated polymers: Saraya Co. disclosed skin protective compositions containing fluorinated polymers and polyhydric alcohols.⁷ The compositions showed good moisturizing and protective effects and had no stickiness and slimy texture. A composition of polyperfluoroethoxymethoxy difluoroethyl PEG phosphatef, glycerin, acrylic acid C_10-30 alkyl acrylate copolymerg and water was applied to the hand prior to repeated soap washing. This composition prevented desquamation of the stratum corneum (SC).

Hair and Hair Care
Storage-stable hair color kit: Henkel AG and Co. has disclosed a storage-stable kit, comprising at least the cosmetic agents A and B (described below), for coloring keratinous fibers.⁸ The invention also discloses a corresponding coloring method. The components of agent A, comprised of at least one reactive carbonyl compound and at least one CH acidic compound, can be produced separately and both agents can take the form of a powder, granulate or molded bodies. Agent B contains at least one basifier in a cosmetic support and has a pH value greater than 7. The respective components are stable in storage and when mixed, produce a colorant that provides keratinous fibers with glossy, intense color.

Basification for delayed hair bleaching: Henkel Ag and Co. also revealed hair bleaching compositions with a coated basification agent for delayed activity.⁹ The invention involves at least one solid bleaching agent and at least one solid basification agent. The basification agent includes a solid core and is coated with a mixture of a water-insoluble organic oil that is liquid at 20°C, and a wax that is kneadable at 20°C, that melts without decomposition at 40°C, and that has a low viscosity between 50°C–90°C. The basification particles are coated in a fluidized bed apparatus. Bleaching substances are selected from the group of hydrogen peroxide adducts, alkali and ammonium persulfates and peroxidisulfates.

Nonsticky hair styling: Kao Corp. revealed nonsticky o/w hair-styling compositions that impart a light and soft texture to hair.¹⁰ These compositions contain insoluble silicone powders or organic powders, silicone oils of viscosity 1–50 mm2/s, thickening carboxy-containing polymers or their salts, and surfactants. A hair wax containing cross-linked methylpolysiloxane powderh, dimethylpolysiloxane 5 CSj, dimethylpolysiloxane 10 CSk, acrylic acid-alkyl methacrylate copolymerm, polyoxyethylene cetyl ether and polyoxyethylene lauryl ether showed good hair-styling properties and no change in appearance after one month of storage at 50°C.

Makeup
Lip gloss formulation: Coty SAS has published a lip gloss formulation with a sugar gel matrix, a gel comprised of hydrogenated polyisobutene, and a gel of fumed silica di-methyl silicate in C_15-19 hydrocarbon.¹¹ The sugar gel matrix includes stearoyl inulin and an ester or ether with the formula: R1CO2R2, where R1 is a residue of a C6-29 fatty acid and R2 is a C3-30 hydrocarbon. The ester or ether is entrapped in the stearoyl inulin sugar gel matrix.