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Evaluating Outside-in Skin Transparency and Other Literature Findings
By: Charles Fox, Independent Consultant
Posted: August 31, 2009, from the September 2009 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.
Skin and Skin Care
Dermcidin: Readers interested in keeping up with skin physiology should read the study by Niyonsaba et al. on the human antimicrobial peptide dermicidin and its behavior in activating normal human keratinocytes.1 To protect against invading microbial pathogens, the skin has evolved various mechanisms including epithelial defenses, which mainly consist of antimicrobial proteins and peptides.
In the skin, both resident and infiltrating cells synthesize and secrete small peptides that exhibit broad-spectrum antimicrobial activity against bacteria, fungi and viruses. However, it is increasingly evident that these peptides act not only as endogenous antibiotics, but also are involved in immune and/or inflammatory responses.
Dermcidin (DCD) is an isolated antimicrobial peptide produced by the eccrine sweat glands in the skin. Recently, the DCD peptides DCD-1 and DCD-1L were shown to display in vitro microbiocidal activities against bacteria and viruses, and can also trigger keratinocyte activation.
Curcumin for antiaging: Amorepacific Corp. disclosed a skin preparation containing vitamins C and D and curcumin to prevent skin damage caused by photoaging.2 The disclosed composition reduced free radicals, thus preventing increased catalase activity or water loss caused by UV radiation. The preparation is said to prevent skin damage caused by UV rays, which are the main cause of skin photoaging. In addition, it was shown to exhibit moisturizing and antiaging effects.
Resveratrol and DNA repair enzyme synergy: ELC Management LLC discloses compositions including resveratrol or a derivative thereof and at least one DNA repair enzyme, and a method to repair human skin damaged by environmental stressors such as sun exposure.3 These compositions were applied to skin and, after a period of rest, a synergistic effect was demonstrated; the OGG1 enzyme and resveratrol were found to protect cells from UVB induced toxicity. Formulations containing trisodium resveratrol triphosphate, two different repair enzymesa, b and other ingredients are disclosed.