Lyotropic Liquid Crystals for Damaged Hair and Other Topics: Literature Findings

By: Charlie Fox, Independent Consultant

Posted: July 30, 2009, from the August 2009 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.

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Skin care fabric with cyclodextrin fixation: Yamamoto et al. have published on a complex fixation technology for the production of a functional skin care fabric.¹⁵ The practical application of the fixation technology was examined using cyclodextrin, which was stabilized and fixed on the surface of the synthetic fiber using a mixture of isocyanate and glyoxal cross-linking agents. During development, the process was put into practical use using a production machine. The woven fabric was fixed with vitamin E by means of the described technology, and the resulting fabric provided skin care benefits. Integral collagen treatment: Puig et al. describe a multifunctional ingredient for an integral collagen treatment.¹⁶ The ingredient^b is comprised of active peptides and proteins that improve overall collagen quality via three primary mechanisms: decreased synthesis, altered fibril organization and increased destruction. By combining actives to tackle each problem independently, the researchers found it possible to create a trifunctional product that provided significant antiaging activity.

Dipolar ionic compounds: Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH disclosed dipolar ionic compounds, sample formulations, and use of the compounds in cosmetics.¹⁷ Formic acid and 3-dimethylaminopropylamine were reacted under a nitrogen atmosphere at 175°C for 4–5 hr and the obtained amide amine was reacted with sodium monochloroacetate. The result, in aqueous solution, was a product consisting of 38.5% component along with 11.5% sodium chloride and 50% water. A test formulation was created with 1.0% w/w of the above product solution, 3% polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose distearate, 2.0% glyceryl stearate, 1.0% stearyl alcohol, 5.0% cetearyl ethylhexanoate, 14.0% mineral oil, and water to 100%. Reproduction of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited.

References
Send e-mail to CT_author@allured.com. 
1. R Yanagisawa et al, Titanium dioxide nanoparticles aggravate atopic dermatitis-like skin lesions in NC/Nga mice, Experimental Biology and Medicine 234(3) 314–322 (2009)
2. M Inui et al, Mechanisms of inhibitory effects of CoQ10 on UVB-induced wrinkle formation in vitro and in vivo, BioFactors 32(1–4) 237–243 (2008) (In English)
3. Q Li et al, Application of fullerene in cosmetics, Jingxi Yu Zhuanyong Huaxuepin 16(13) 18–20 (2008) (in Chinese)
4. KR 2009 10,283, Antiaging composition containing flavanone compounds and its use for skin care products, Bio Spectrum Inc., South Korea (Jan 30, 2009)
5. WO 2009 24,936, Method for treating damaged hair with shampoo comprising anionic surfactant and cationic polymer, the combination forming lyotropic liquid crystals, The Procter & Gamble Company, USA (Feb 26, 2009)
6. CN 101,357,110, Hair conditioning shampoos containing natural plants, Faming Zhuanli Shenqing Gongkai Shuomingshu, Taiwan (Feb 4, 2009)
7. JP 2009 40,740, Nonsticky aqueous hair styling compositions containing solid or pasty oily ingredients, liquid oils, anionic surfactants, higher alcohols and high molecular weight polyethylene glycol, Kao Corp., Japan (Feb 26, 2009)
8. DE 102,007,039,745, Hair treatment agent with conditioner(s) and melatonin/agomelatine, Henkel AG & Co., KGaA, Germany (Feb 26, 2009)
9. DE 102,007,039,519, Cosmetic compositions with chitosan and silicone elastomers, Henkel AG & Co., KGaA, Germany (Feb 26, 2009)
10. JP 2009 40,687, Hair cosmetics containing sulfonic acids with excellent spreadability and smooth and flexible finish, Kao Corp., Japan, (Feb 26, 2009)
11. FR 2,920,090, Hair dye composition comprising a aminopyrazolopyridine oxidation base, a coupler and a surfactant, L’Oréal, France (Feb 27, 2009)
12. WO 2009 27,238, Hair styling method using a reducing substance without perm rods followed by an oxidizing composition containing film-forming polymers, Henkel AG & Co. KGaA, Germany (Mar 5, 2009)
13. WO 2009 27,112, Hair growth promoting perparations containing biotin, taurine, purine or their derivatives and at least one glycoprotein, Henkel AG & Co., KGaA, Germany (Mar 2009)
14. R Ramirez et al, Ceramides extracted from wool: Pilot plant solvent extraction, Textile Research J 78(1) 73–80 (2008)
15. T Yamamoto et al, Development of inclusion complex fixation technology and its practical application. Development of skin-care fabric with cyclodextrin fixation technology, Ishikawa-ken Kogyo Shikenjo Kenkyu Hokoku 2007, 57, 29–34 (2008) (in Japanese)
16. A Puig et al, A trifunctional ingredient for an integral collagen treatment, Speciality Chemicals Magazine 27(10) 50–51 (2007)
17. DE 102,007,040,001, Novel dipolar ionic compounds comprising formulations and the use thereof in cosmetics, Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH, Germany (Feb 26, 2009)