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Lyotropic Liquid Crystals for Damaged Hair and Other Topics: Literature Findings
By: Charlie Fox, Independent Consultant
Posted: July 30, 2009, from the August 2009 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.
page 3 of 5
Natural plant conditioning shampoos: Faming Zhuanli Shenqing Gongkai Shuomingshu has developed hair and scalp cleansing and conditioning shampoos using natural plants.6 An example is shown in Formula 2. To mix the shampoo, researchers heated palm oil, hempseed oil and Gleditsia sinensis powder to 80°C. Then, water was heated to 90°C, and the oil phase was added to the water phase while stirring at 600 rpm. An emulsifier was added to the batch and it was cooled to 40°C while Zanthoxylum bungeanum and Angelica dahurica were added. The batch was stirred for an additional 30 min.
Nonsticky, aqueous hair styler: Kao Corp. has developed nonsticky aqueous hair styling compositions.7 The compositions exhibit good spreadability and strong styling power while imparting a fluffy appearance to hair. They contain: 1–20% solid or pasty oily ingredients; 1–5% liquid oils selected from silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils and ester oils; 0.01–5% anionic surfactants except higher fatty acid salts; 3–10% higher molecular weight fatty alcohols; 0.01–0.5% high molecular-weight polyethylene glycol; and (optionally): 5–30% polyhydric alcohols; 1–10% higher fatty acids or their salts; and 3–10% nonionic surfactants. Thus, a hair styling wax was formulated containing microcrystalline waxa; petrolatum; dipentaerythritol esters of hydroxystearic acid, stearic acid and rosin acid; diisostearyl malate; methylpolysiloxane; octyldodecyl myristate; polyoxyethylene lauryl ether sodium phosphate; cetanol; polyethylene glycol (MW = 2,500,000); glycerin; sorbitol solution; stearic acid; polyoxyethylene sorbitan monostearate; glyceryl stearate; and isostearyl glyceryl ether.
Melatonin/agomelatine hair treatment: Henkel AG & Co. has disclosed a hair treatment agent with conditioner(s) and melatonin/agomelatine8 to protect hair against external aggressors. The treatment contains at least 0.1–10% of a cationic conditioner; 0.001–5% of one or more fatty components; 0.001–5% melatonin and/or a salt thereof and/or agomelatine and/or a salt thereof; and at least one conditioning enhancer from the group of: L-carnitine and/or a salt thereof; pantolactone, taurine and/or a salt thereof; vitamins, specifically niacinamide; biotin, pantothenic acid and tocopherol and/or derivatives thereof; ubiquinone; ectoin; allantoin; plant extracts such as echinacea or moringa; plants; xanthines such as caffeine; theophylline and theobromine; and flavonoids such as flavonols, bisabolol and creatine. An example of a hair conditioning cream is shown in Formula 3.
Chitosan for hair volume or hold: Henkel AG & Co. also disclosed cosmetic compositions with chitosan and silicone elastomers.9 The hair treatments comprise 0.05–5% w/w of at least one chitosan and/or chitosan derivative and 0.05–5% w/w of at least one elastomeric silane or siloxane with quaternary ammonium groups to improve fullness, volume and long-term hold in hair. An example is shown in Formula 4.
Sulfonic acid hair compositions: Kao Corp. introduced hair cosmetics containing sulfonic acids with excellent spreadability and a smooth and flexible finish.10 The rinses, treatments, conditioners, creams, gels and foams, contain C6-18 hydrocarbyl-containing sulfonic acids or their salts, quaternary ammonium salts, C8-30 alcohols and liquid crystal-forming agents. An example is shown in Formula 5. Rinsing the hair with this preparation resulted in good coatability and a smooth, soft and nonsticky finish.