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Lyotropic Liquid Crystals for Damaged Hair and Other Topics: Literature Findings

Formulas

  • Formula 1. Shampo for damaged hair5

    Formula 1. Shampo for damaged hair5

    Ammonium laureth sulfate 6.50%w/w
    Ammonium lauryl sulfate 8.10
    Sodium lauryl sulfate 1.40
    Cocamide MEA 1.00
    Cetyl alcohol 0.35
    Lauryl alcohol 0.20
    Methyl (Bis-(hydrogenated tallow amidoethyl) 2 hydroxyethyl ammonium methyl sulfate (Evonik, Varisoft 110) 0.40
    Trihydroxystearin 0.25
    Fragrance (parfum) 0.55
    Sodium chloride 0.30
    Ammonium xylene sulfonate 0.20
    Citric acid 0.04
    Sodium citrate 0.40
    Sodium benzoate 0.25
    Diamine 0.10
    Polydecene 0.40
    Trimethylolpropane 0.10
    Water (aqua) qs to 100.00
  • Formula 2. Hair conditioning shampoo6

    Formula 2. Hair conditioning shampoo6

    Elaeis guineensis (palm) oil 15.00%w/w
    Cannabis sativa (hempseed) seed oil 6.00
    Gleditsia sinensis powder 8.00
    Angelica dahurica 9.00
    Zanthoxylum bungeanum 8.00
    Emulsifier 2.00
    Water (aqua) qs to 100.00
  • Formula 3. Hair conditioning cream8

    Formula 3. Hair conditioning cream8

    Paraffinum liquidum (mineral) oil 1.00%w/w
    Distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate (and) cetearyl alcohol (Dehyquart F 75, Cognis) 2.00
    Quaternium-87 (Varisoft W 575 PG, Evonik Degussa) 1.50
    Cetearyl alcohol 3.50
    Lecithin 0.40
    Propylparaben 0.15
    Glyceryl stearate 0.70
    Stearamidopropyldimethylamine 1.00
    Cetrimonium chloride (Dehyquart A CA, Cognis) 3.00
    Citric acid 0.50
    Methylparaben 0.15
    Phenoxyethanol 0.40
    D-panthenol, 75% 0.20
    Hydrolyzed wheat protein (Gluadin W 20, Cognis) 1.00
    Melatonin 0.10
    Polyquaternium-37 (and) propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate (and) PPG-1 trideceth-6 (Salcare SC96, Ciba) 1.00
    Water (aqua) qs to 100.00
  • Formula 4. Hair treatment composition9

    Formula 4. Hair treatment composition9

    Benzophenone-4 0.05% w/w
    Citric acid 0.01
    Chitosan PCA (Kytamer PC, Amerchol) 1.00
    Ethanol 15.00
    Silicone quaternium-16/glycidoxyl dimethicone crosspolymer (and) trideceth-12) (DC 5-7070 emulsion, Dow Corning) 5.00
    D-panthenol 0.25
    PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 0.50
    Fragrance (parfum) 0.10
    Water (aqua) qs to 100.00
  • Formula 5. Hair rinse10

    Formula 5. Hair rinse10

    Sodium 2-naphthalenesulfonate 1.00% w/w
    Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride 2.00
    Cetyl alcohol 1.50
    Stearyl alcohol 1.50
    Isostearyl glyceryl pentaerythrityl ether 1.00
    Water (aqua) qs to 100.00
  • Formula 6. Hair growth promoter10

    Formula 6. Hair growth promoter10

    Cetearyl alcohol (Hydrenol D, Cognis) 9.50%w/w
    1-Dodecanol (and) 1- tetradecanol (and) lauryl myristyl alcohol (Lorol Spezial, Cognis) 2.40
    Ceteareth-12 (Eumulgin B1, Cognis) 0.50
    Ceteareth-20 (Eumulgin B2, Cognis) 0.50
    Sodium laureth-6 carboxylate (Akypo Soft 45 NV, Kao) 10.00
    Sodium myreth sulfate (Texapon K 14S 70C, Cognis) 2.80
    Lauryl glucoside (Plantacare 1200 UP, Cognis) 2.00
    Octyldodecanol (Eutanol G, Cognis) 1.00
    L-arginine 0.50
    Ascorbic acid 0.20
    5,6-Dihydroxyindoline hydrobromide 1.30
    Taurine 0.50
    Caffeine 0.10
    D-biotin 0.001
    Phytodermine 0.10
    Ammonia, 50% 1.20
    Water (aqua) qs to 100.00
By: Charlie Fox, Independent Consultant
Posted: July 30, 2009, from the August 2009 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.

This month’s survey of recent patent and research literature describes moneymaking ideas for personal care product development, including an integral collagen treatment, CoQ10 for UVB-induced wrinkles, fullerene in cosmetics, a melatonin hair treatment and biotin for hair growth, among others.

Skin and Skin Care
TiO2 nanoparticles on AD lesions: Yanagisawa et al. have found that titanium dioxide nanoparticles aggravate atopic dermatitis (AD)-like skin lesions in NC/Nga mice.1 Titanium dioxide (TiO2) nanoparticles are produced abundantly and used ubiquitously in various cosmetic products. However, the effects of transdermal exposure of AD skin to TiO2 nanoparticles had yet to be determined.

In the described work, the authors investigated the effects of differently sized TiO2 nanoparticles on AD-like skin lesions in NC/Nga mice assumed to show skin barrier dysfunction/defects. Male mice were injected intradermally with TiO2 nanoparticles of 15 nm, 50 nm or 100 nm and/or mite allergen into their right ears. The authors evaluated clinical scores, ear thickening, histological findings and the protein expression of T helper (Th) 1 and Th2 cytokines in the ear, and the levels of immunoglobulin (Ig) and histamine in serum. TiO2 nanoparticles aggravated AD-like skin lesions related to mite allergen in NC/Nga mice. The enhancing effects were paralleled by the overproduction of interleukin-4 (IL-4) in the skin and the overall levels of total immunoglobulin E (IgE) and histamine in serum. In contrast, TiO2 nanoparticles decreased the local expression of IFN-gamma in the presence of an allergen.

Additionally TiO2 nanoparticles alone significantly increased histamine levels in serum and IL-13 expression in the ear. However, different effects related to size variances of the TiO2 nanoparticles were not observed. Thus, researchers concluded that exposure to TiO2 nanoparticles under skin barrier dysfunction/defects could exacerbate AD symptoms. Furthermore, TiO2 nanoparticles could play a significant role in the initiation and/or progression of skin diseases following the barrier dysfunction/defect by histamine release even in the absence of an allergen.

CoQ10 on UVB-induced wrinkles: Inui et al. studied the mechanisms of inhibitory effects of coenzyme Q10 (CoQ10) on UVB-induced wrinkle formation in vitro and in vivo.2 Photo-damaged skin exhibits wrinkles, pigmented spots, dryness and tumors. Solar UV radiation induces cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPD) and further produces base oxidation by reactive oxygen species (ROS). ROS are thought to be a major factor to initiate the up-regulation of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) in keratinocytes and fibroblasts via activation of receptor proteins on the cell membrane of keratinocytes and fibroblasts, and to degrade fiber components in the dermis, leading to wrinkle formation.