DDS Liposomes for Cosmetic Delivery and Other Recent Literature Findings

By: Charles Fox, Independent Consultant

Posted: June 30, 2009, from the July 2009 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.

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Polyester and gelling agent lipstick: L’Oréal has patented a transparent cosmetic composition formulated with a polyester and a gelling agent.10 This composition is comprised of 0.1–70% polyester, 1–90% w/w oil and 0.01–50% w/w gelling agent. The polyester is obtained by the reaction of: at least one polyol comprising 3–6 hydroxyl groups; at least one non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid; at least one aromatic monocarboxylic acid and polycarboxylic acid comprising at least two carboxylic groups and/or a cyclic anhydride of such a polycarboxylic acid. Benzoic acid, isostearic acid, isophthalic acid and pentaerythritol were reacted to obtain pentaerythrityl/benzoate/isostearate/isophthalate polycondensate as a thick oil. A formulation of a lipstick containing the above polycondensate is also disclosed.

Hydroxyl compound makeup: L’Oréal again discloses a makeup composition comprising a hydroxyl compound.¹¹ This w/o emulsion comprises 10–60% water; a hydrocarbon surfactant; excipients; and a hydroxyl compound selected from propylene glycol, a mixture of mono- and/or di-glycerides of caprylic and capric acid, and their mixture. An example of a cosmetic foundation is shown in Formula 7.

Interesting Compositions and Raw Materials
Congealed o/w dispersion/emulsion: Henkel AG and Co., KGaA has created an antiperspirant stick based on a congealed o/w dispersion/emulsion.¹² An example is shown in Formula 8.

Aqueous amino acid preservative: Ajinomoto Co., Inc. discloses an aqueous preservative solution with a high amino acid content and compositions formulated with this solution.¹³ The preservative solution is made up of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and/or its salts, a basic amino acid and/or its salts, an acid amino acid and/or its salts, a neutral amino acid and/or its salts, lactic acid and/or its salts, and water, wherein the pH of the solution is 3.5–6.0. This preservative solution comprises: 15% sodium L-pyrrolidone carboxylate, 4.00% DL-pyrrolidone carboxylate, 8.00% L-arginine, 0.15% L-histidine, 5.20% L-aspartic acid, 1.30% glycine, 1.20% L-alanine, 0.40% L-proline, 0.80% L-serine, 0.40% L-threonine, 0.65% L-valine, 0.40% L-isoleucine, 0.15% L-phenylalanine and 12.00% sodium DL-lactate at pH 5. Formulation of a shampoo containing 5% of the above solution is disclosed. Low pH and viscosity emulsion: Kosei Co., Ltd. has patented a cosmetic emulsion containing polyoxyethylene sorbitan monostearate and higher alcohols.¹⁴ The stable o/w emulsified cosmetic described has both a low pH and low viscosity. The cosmetic compositions comprise twenty moieties of polyoxyethylene sorbitan monostearate (INCI: Polysorbate 60), C_16-22 higher alcohols, water, polysaccharide-type, water-soluble polymers and acidic substances, wherein the weight ratio of polyoxyethylene sorbitan monostearate to C16-22 higher alcohols is 0.05–10. The emulsion has a pH 3–4.5 and viscosity of 1,000–7,500 m•Pas at 25°C. An example is shown in Formula 9.

2-propyl heptyl octanoate emulsion: Beiersdorf AG has created a stabile cosmetic o/w emulsion containing 2-propyl heptyl octanoate, cetearyl alcohol, sodium cetearyl sulfate and glyceryl stearate.15 An example of a sunscreen is shown in Formula 10.