DDS Liposomes for Cosmetic Delivery and Other Recent Literature Findings

By: Charles Fox, Independent Consultant

Posted: June 30, 2009, from the July 2009 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.

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Copolymer for permanent hair waving: Kao Professional Salon Services GmbH has created a composition for the permanent shaping of waving of human hair through a copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and quaternized vinylimidazole at a concentration in the range of 0.1–2.5% w/w.5 The composition of a permanent wave composition for normal hair is shown in Formula 3.

Sunscreens
Transparent film UV protection: Kosei Co., Ltd. discloses sunscreen cosmetics containing metal oxide particles and polysiloxanes.6 Disclosed are w/o sunscreens that provide a transparent film with UV blocking effects. The sunscreen is comprised of volatile organopolysiloxanes; fine particles of metal oxides; polysiloxanes having hydrophilic groups; oil-soluble, organic, UV ray absorbents; and organopolysiloxanes. An example is shown in Formula 4.

Copolymer water repellants in sunscreens: Beiersdorf AG has disclosed copolymers in cosmetic sun protection agents for use as water repellents.7 The invention relates to a cosmetic preparation containing styrene/acrylate copolymers and one or more UV light filters, as shown in Formula 5.

Color Cosmetics
Three-step process for nail color: L’Oréal discloses a three-step color application process for nails comprising color precursor, color activator and color deactivator compositions.⁸ The first step of this process involves applying a composition containing at least: one color precursor, one film former, one volatile solvent and one optional buffer or colorant. The second step is to apply a second composition comprised of a color activator on top of at least a portion of the first composition. The final step is to apply an optional third composition comprised of at least one color deactivator on top of at least a portion of the second composition. An example is shown in Formula 6.

Lip and skin color with polyester: L’Oréal also has disclosed skin and lip cosmetics containing a certain polyester and a branched hydrocarbon, along with a treatment method for employing the composition and use of the composition for treating or coloring the skin or lips.9 Pentaerythrityl benzoate/isophthalate/isostearate is prepared from pentaerythritol, and the corresponding acids and this ester are applied in a lipstick formulation.