DDS Liposomes for Cosmetic Delivery and Other Recent Literature Findings
Formulas
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Formula 1. Sebum flow regulator2
Formula 1. Sebum flow regulator2
A. Lauric acid 11.50%w/w Oleic acid 11.50 Isostearic acid 5.75 Tricaprin 11.50 Triolein 11.50 Glyceryl isostearates 5.75 Oleyl oleate 10.40 Myristyl myristate 10.40 Isostearyl isostearate 5.20 Squalene 12.00 Cholesterol oleate 3.00 Cholesterol 1.50 B. Artificial sebum mixture in A 40.00 Polyethylene (CL-2080, Kobo Products) 60.00 - Formula 2. Microemulsion shampoo3
Formula 2. Microemulsion shampoo3
Microemulsion Composition Decyl glucoside (Plantacare 2000 UP, Cognis) 17.50%w/w Glyceryl oleate (Monomuls 90-O 18, Cognis) 8.00 Dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol OE, Cognis) 20.00 Water (aqua) qs to 100.00 Shampoo Composition Sodium laureth sulfate (Texapon N 70, Cognis) 9.00 Cocamidopropyl betaine (Dehyton PK 45, Cognis) 3.00 Microemulsion (above) 1.78 Polyquaternium-10 (Dekaquat 400 KC, Dekker) 0.20 PEG/PPG-120/10 trimethylolpropane trioleate (Arlypon TT, Cognis) 0.65 Methyldibromo glutaronitile (and) phenoxyethanol (Euxyl K 400, schülke inc.) 0.10 Water (aqua) qs to 100.00 - Formula 3. Permanant wave composition5
Formula 3. Permanant wave composition5
Ammonium thioglycolate 21.30%w/w Ammonium bicarbonate 5.00 Butylene glycol 3.00 Polyquaternium-16 0.50 PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 0.70 Fragrance (parfum) 0.40 Ammonia, 25% qs to pH 8.3 Water (aqua) qs to 100.00 - Formula 4. Sunscreen with zinc oxide6
Formula 4. Sunscreen with zinc oxide6
Zinc oxide microparticles 20.00%w/w Lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyldimethicone (KF 6038, Shin-Etsu) 5.00 Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane 25.00 Dimethylpolysiloxane 5.00 2-Ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate 10.00 Dimethylsilanediol-hexylmethylsilanediol copolymer 5.00 PEG-9 dimethicone 1.00 Butylene glycol 5.00 Ethanol 3.00 Sodium chloride 0.50 Preservative qs Water (aqua) qs to 100.00 - Formula 5. Water repellant sunscreen7
Formula 5. Water repellant sunscreen7
Glyceryl stearate citrate 0.50%w/w Cetearyl alcohol 2.00 Styrene/acrylate copolymer 5.00 Vinylpyrrolidone/acrylic acid copolymer 0.50 Butylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate 10.00 Octyldodecanol 3.00 Myristyl myristate 1.00 Glycerin 2.00 Butylmethoxydibenzoyl methane 2.50 Octyl salicylate 4.00 Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid 3.00 Sodium starch octenyl succinate 3.00 Alcohol 0.50 Taurine 0.10 Folic acid 0.01 Vitamin E acetate 0.20 Disodium EDTA 0.10 Fragrance (parfum) qs Preservative qs Dyes qs Sodium hydroxide qs Water (aqua) qs to 100.00 - Formula 6. Three-step nail color8
Formula 6. Three-step nail color8
Color precursor Film formers 14.00%w/w Plasticizers 5.00 Volatile solvent 79.00 3,3-bis(2-Methyl-1-octyl-1H-indol-3-yl)phthalide (color precursor) 0.50 Aminomethylpropanol 0.40 Pigments/fillers 1.00 Gelling agent 0.10 Color activator Isopropyl alcohol 96.00 Citric acid 4.00 Color deactivator Isopropyl alcohol 95.00 Aminomethyl propanol 5.00 - Formula 7. Foundation lotion11
Formula 7. Foundation lotion11
PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate (Arlacel P135, Croda) 5.00% w/w C12-13 dimalate 8.00 Capric (and) caprylic acid glycerides 1.00 Modified hectorite 0.80 Propylene carbonate 0.50 Pigments coated with amino acids 10.00 Isododecane 15.00 Polymethylmethacrylate 5.00 Sodium chloride 0.70 Glycerol 2.50 Butylene glycol 3.50 Ethyl alcohol 10.00 Propylene glycol 1.00 Glycerol 2-ethylhexylether 1.00 Octane-1,2-diol 1.00 Water (aqua) qs to 100.00 - Formula 9. Stable, low pH, low viscosity o/w emulsion14
Formula 9. Stable, low pH, low viscosity o/w emulsion14
Polysorbate 60 0.80% w/w Lactic acid 0.10 Sodium lactate 0.10 Butylene glycol 12.00 Methylparaben 0.15 Dimethylpolysiloxane 0.40 Glyceryl stearate 0.40 Cetostearyl alcohol 0.35 Behenyl alcohol 0.35 Squalane 9.00 Hydrogenated phospholipids 0.20 Xanthan gum 0.10 Ethanol 5.00 Water (aqua) qs to 100.00 - Formula 8. Antiperspirant stick12
Formula 8. Antiperspirant stick12
Glycol distearate (Cutina AGS, Cognis) 2.40% w/w Palmitic acid (and) stearic acid (Cutina FS45, Cognis) 2.75 Ceteareth-20 (Eumulgin B2, Cognis) 0.75 Ceteareth-30 (Eumulgin B3, Cognis) 0.75 Diisopropyl adipate (Ceraphyl 230, ISP) 6.00 Cocoglycerides (Novata AB, Cognis) 4.00 Cetyl palmitate (Cutina CP, Cognis) 5.00 Hydrogenated castor oil (Cutina HR, Cognis) 3.50 Cetearyl Behenate (Kesterwax K62, Koster Keunen) 4.50 Aluminum hydroxychloride, 50% in water 40.00 Talc 10.00 Tris (tetramethylhydroxypiperidenol) citrate (Tinogard Q, Ciba) 0.05 Propylene glycol 10.00 Water (aqua) qs to 100.00 - Formula 10. Stable o/w sunscreen emulsion15
Formula 10. Stable o/w sunscreen emulsion15
Cetearyl alcohol 1.00%w/w Sodium cetearyl sulfate 0.20 Glyceryl stearate SE 0.20 Stearyl alcohol 1.00 Xanthan gum 0.10 Butylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate 5.00 C12-15 alkyl benzoate 5.00 Cyclomethicone 2.00 Glycerin 2.00 C12-38 acid triglyceride 1.00 2-propyl heptyl octanoate 3.00 Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 4.00 Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid 2.00 Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine 2.00 Titanium dioxide 2.00 PVP-hexadecene copolymer 0.50 Starch 1.00 Vitamin E acetate 0.10 Disodium EDTA 0.10 Fragrance (parfum) 0.20 Preservative 0.30 Sodium hydroxide qs Water (aqua) qs to 100.00 By: Charles Fox, Independent Consultant
Posted: June 30, 2009, from the July 2009 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.
In this month’s survey of recent patent and literature research, the author describes money-making ideas in the personal care industry, ranging from regulating sebum with spheroids to transparent film UV protection, copolymer water repellents and an aqueous amino acid preservative.
Skin and Skin Care
Peptides for antiaging: The Research Foundation of the State University of New York disclosed peptides of fibronectin and vitronectin and variants thereof that have certain cosmetic activities, including growth factor-binding.1 Also described are fragments of growth factors that bind to fibronectin and inhibit binding of full-length growth factors to the same. Compositions containing such fragments are useful in wound care, cancer treatment and cosmetic treatments for wrinkles or UV photodamage of skin. These fragments allow the growth factor to retain biological activity and can be used to complement the loss of fibronectin or vitronectin from cells. The identification of minimal domains of fibronectins to promote the survival of fibronectin-null cells is demonstrated.Regulating sebum with spheroids: Unilever PLC introduced a skin care composition comprising spheroids and optional thickening agents, and a method for regulating sebum flow from sebocytes.2 A spheroid and sebum mixture is created upon application and the resulting mixture leaves a pleasant, silky and powdery sensation. Thus, a skin care composition was prepared as shown in Fomula 1.
Hair and Hair Care
Microemulsion shampoo formulation: Cognis IP Management GmbH launched a microemulsion-containing shampoo composition with improved hair care properties.3 This cosmetic preparation contains at least one surfactant selected from anionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants; a microemulsion; and at least one cationic polymer. An example is shown in Formula 2.Frizz reduction with conditioning copolymers: Lion Corp. disclosed hair conditioners containing copolymers with methacrylic acid, dialkyldiallylammonium salt units and fatty acid polyglycerin esters.4 The disclosed hair rinses, hair treatments and hair conditioners also contain optional alditols and cationic surfactants, and suppress increased hair volume in high-moisture environments. A rinse-off hair conditioner containing a copolymer of acrylic acid-dimethyldiallylammonium chloride and acrylamidea, diglyceryl diisostearate, sorbitol, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride and additives was applied to a bleached and shampooed hair bundle. This composition was found to suppress an increase in maximum diameter of the hair bundle after 24 hr storage at 25°C with a relative humidity of 90%.
- Formula 2. Microemulsion shampoo3