Collagen Induction Therapy Without Risk of Hyperpigmentation and Other Topics: Literature Findings

By: Charles Fox, Independent Consultant

Posted: May 29, 2009, from the June 2009 issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries.

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Grafted amino acid polymers for keratin care: L’Oréal discloses a cosmetic treatment for keratin materials, particularly for hair, that contains a grafted amino acid polymer and an accompanying application method.¹³ The polymer is based on a backbone containing cationic amino acid monomer units and hydrophilic grafts covalently bonded to all or part of the backbone; said grafts contain at least two repeated hydrophilic monomer units having the composition: -CH2-CH2-O-. In the described invention, poly(L-lysine) was reacted with methoxy poly(ethylene glycol)nitrophenyl carbonate to obtain a poly(L-lysine)-polyethylene glycol graft copolymer. A sample hair lotion formulation containing 1% of the described polymer also is shown.

Makeup
Synthetic phlogopite primer for lipstick, gloss application: Kosei Co., Ltd. discloses cosmetic compositions with iron-containing synthetic phlogopite to apply as a primer to lips prior to application of lipsticks and glosses to improve the smoothness and color of lips.¹⁴ The described compositions contain 1–20% w/w of a synthetic phlogopite-containing iron with an average particle diameter of 3–20 µm. The compositions may further contain a spherical powder and/or highly viscous oily component. An example of a lip base is shown in Formula 9.

Glossy lip films: Kosei Co., Ltd. also has received a patent on lip cosmetics containing waxes, (di)glycerin isostearate and phenylpolysiloxanes.¹⁵ These stable lip cosmetics contain Fischer-Tropsch wax and multibranched isostearic acid esters and provide a glossy film. An example is shown in Formula 10.

UV-shielding makeup sticks: Shiseido Co., Ltd. discloses UV-shielding makeup sticks comprising resin powders and oils, with excellent hardness and bright colors.16 The makeup contains (% w/w): 0.1–20.0% spheroidal resin powders with a melting point > 200°C; 0.5–80.0% polar oils, preferably cinnamic acid derivatives; 0.1–20% oils that are solid in the range of ordinary temperatures to 50°C; and 0.001–5.0% fluorescent dyes. An example is shown in Formula 11.

Oily, volumizing eyelash composition: Kosei Co., Ltd. also has been issued a patent on oily cosmetic compositions with long-lasting coloring properties and volume-increasing effects for application to eyelashes.¹⁷ The disclosed composition contains: polyisobutene, black iron oxide-coated titanium mica, and titanium/titanium oxide sintered product and/or black iron oxide in addition to the black iron oxide-coated titanium mica). An example of a cream-type mascara composition is shown in Formula 12.